A MEMORABLE DINNER WTIH BAROLIS AND BURGUNDY - Fleet Street Kitchen - Baltimore, MD (6/14/2013)
Kelly Walker had a business trip to Baltimore and Tom Maskell organized a dinner. Initially the theme was Burgundy but since we had at least five members of the nights of Barolo, we had to add a few barolis. Eric Solomon, a good friend of Kelly flew in with the 91 Leroy Richebourg and the 96 DRC RSV as well as the 63 DOW port. Eric has a great palate and it was great to have his insight. The wine service at Fleet Street Kitchen was perfect. I was incredibly happy as the glasses were perfectly clean. Kelly designated me as the official taster to detect the flaws and to determine whether to decant. I failed my task, although initially thought the 88 Mugnier Musigny was corked, I changed my mind after having a sip as the palate was fresh. I suppose always go with the first impression. I was served a few drops of every wine and they were all fresh and most were expressive. The dishes were beautifully prepared and complemented the wines well.
Four Seasons Baltimore
Our evening started at the outdoor bar of Four Seasons Baltimore. Kelly ordered the 10 Dauvissat Sechet. We were enjoying a beautiful sunny day but it was a bit challenging as the wine got warmed up quickly.
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2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
The style is in-line with the 10 Les Clos, very ripe, unctuous and sweet with counterbalancing piercing acidity. Ripe, warm and sweet nose, lemon curd, mint, honey and a slight hint of limestone. Unctuous and sweet palate with piercing acidity. The ripe expression works better in Les Clos as the fruit expression is more complex and there is more mineral and saline expression to bring better balance. I definitely preferred the 10 La Forest which shows more white fruits and cooler overall expression. Nevertheless this is an enjoyable wine. (91 pts.)
Bubbly
Kelly diligently figured out the vintage. Eric and Kelly thought it was a bit funky initially. It got fresher with air and Kelly mentioned that perhaps decanting would have helped.
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2004 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs La Parcelle - France, Champagne
The nose displays sweet ripe round fruits, baked apple, almond paste, white pepper and anise. Sweet ripe palate, excellent concentration and piercing acidity that seems a bit disjointed. Eric and Kelly mentioned blue cheese which I didn’t get. With an hour of air, it got fresher and according Eric, Salonesque and I completely agree as the wine gained precision. (92 pts.)
Two bottles of the 92 Leflaive CM from two different sources
I thought I brought the 92 Chevalier and Pucelles. I asked the sommelier to pour the Pucelles first and he got really confused. I was in hurry and apparently brought two bottles of the Chevaliers. Normally this would have made me to cringe but not this night.
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1992 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Advanced nose, burnt caramel and a hint of oxidative note, also anise, mint, and candied orange rind. Not a representative bottle. I would rate around 90 as it is still enjoyable. -
1992 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
I was fortunate to source this from a European source and all the bottles have been stellar and this was no exception. A great example of the 92 grand crus burgundy, sweet ripe fruits, excellet concentration yet almost airy texture and exceptional precision. Splash decanting, the nose displays sweet white fruits, honeysuckle, flint, smoke, grapefruit rind and mint. Strong presence of flint and mint seems to be the signature of the 92 Leflaive CM. With air, it got fresher, more flint and mint notes also licorice per Eric and I agree. This is a very complete harmonious wine with exceptional airy texture. It is still at its pick but I would recommend to drinking sooner. Decanting for an hour will bring the extra freshness. It started as 96 but ended at around 98. (98 pts.)
Two matured Burgundy
Although the 88 Musigny was corked, there was still noticeable beautiful musigny fruit. The 91 was a great Leroy.
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1988 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Always go with your first instinct. Initially a small pour, slight hint of TCA but the palate displays floral note and quite fresh so I changed my mind. It is slightly corked but there is beautiful floral note as well as lean, polished and precise Musigny fruits. NR (flawed) -
1991 Domaine Leroy Richebourg - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Expressive Leroy nose of sweet caramel, jammy dark red fruits, lactic, clove, flowers, tar, stems, mushroom and mineral. Excellent concentration and still strong presence of tannins causing dry dusty finish. This is a youthful big scale wine with formidable structure that still needs time. This bottle showed younger than the 96 DRC RSV. (97 pts.)
85 Barolis
Both the Cannubi and Monprivato were incredibly youthful where Rionda seemed a bit tired.
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1985 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Very youthful nose of bright red fruits, candied red fruits, tar, mint, mushroom and dusty earth. With air, the fruit becomes darker, also menthol, mint and anise emerges. Very precise palate expression, medium concentration, fresh, tar, bright acidity and nicely integrated tannins. Drinking beautifully but will improve with time. (94 pts.) -
1985 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
It is hard to believe but this is even fresher than the 85 Sandrone cannubi. Youthful sappy red fruits, black cherries, meaty, licorice, round, mushroom and mineral. Palate displays luxurious and generous fruits, sap, tar and nicely integrated tannins. This shows greater concentration of fruits than the cannubi . The fruit expression is deeper, sort of Baritone if the Cannubi is a tenor. Drinking beautifully but still can improve. (95 pts.) -
1985 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
So much more advanced than the other two, tar, light caramel, rustic, celery and noticeable oxidative note. Medium concentration and fully integrated tannins. Definitely not as concentrated but not sure whether this is a representative bottle. (89 pts.)
Monfortinis
This was an incredible flight. I believe my ratings are lower than the other’s. These were great but for me, it didn’t show as well as in the past.
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1964 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Minor controversy regarding VA. Noticeable VA but also complex nose displaying anise, dry cherry, iron, beef blood, earth, tar, balsamico and rose pedal. The nose changed constantly but more often than not VA was quite noticeable for me. This is a decadent style of Monfortino. This was the consensus favorite. (96 pts.) -
1982 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Perhaps the biggest of the flight, balsamico, fruit cake, almond paste, dry cherry, dry fruits, mint, iron, charred steak and licorice. Excellent concentration, beautiful silky texture, strong presence of acidity and tannins. This is a big scale and masculine style of Monfortino. I slightly preferred the 85 with brighter red fruits and lighter impression. (96 pts.) -
1985 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A bit more delicate and precise than the 82, beautiful perfume, bright red and black cherry fruits, iron, flower, balsamico, cedar and white pepper. Medium concentration, linear, airy, fresh and precise palate. Very complete wine. (97 pts.)
DRCs
I recently had a discussion regarding the merits of giving young wines 99 pts or higher. This day, the 96 DRC RSV was perfectly drinking and I preferred to the 05 DRC RSV and the 09 La Tache. The 09 La Tache seems a bit tight initially but opened up. Perhaps decanting would have helped but the last bottle drank a few months ago was a lot more expressive so I perhaps made a wrong call. Nevertheless one of the best flights of my life.
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1996 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
I got a small pour to check the flaw and the nose exploded with perfectly matured sweet red fruits. Intoxicating spicy Vosne fruits, sous bois, raspberry essence, tomato jelly, light licorice, smoke, sap, toasted sesame, white pepper, mushroom and earth. Lovely sweet palate, warm and round, perfectly ripe fruits, bright acidity and fully integrated tannins. It is perfectly matured, explosive nose and delicate and decadent palate. The 05 RSV and the 09 La Tache may have better concentration and complexity but this is clearly drinks the best and the most enjoyable at the moment, memorable wine. (98 pts.) -
2005 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
It shed opulent primary fruits. Subtle nose of bright red fruits, raspberry, rose pedal, vosne spice and minerality. Palate displays perfect balance, beautiful core energy, bright acidity and noticeable but nicely integrated tannins. Although a bit tight, vibrant energy, perfect balance and precision. It will require at least ten more years of cellaring to reach the peak drinking window. (97 pts.) -
2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
I usually find nothing in common between Burgundy and Californian pinots but this is a rare exception. Jammy Californian fruits, strawberry jam and earth. Excellent concentration, sweet jammy palate and fully integrated tannins. For me, this is a bit cloying. This is a typical 03 with opulent jammy red fruits. I wonder how this will evolve. (92 pts.) -
2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
Only four month ago this was perfectly expressive from the get go but not so this time. Initially reticent nose, a hint of green, smoke, crushed blackberries, sesame, lavender and earth. Intense sweet palate, beautifully integrated tannins and acidity. With air, the nose becomes a bit more expressive, vonse spice, blackberry essence, coffee, sesame, sap, tea and earth. Excellent concentration and balance. I was expecting the perfect wine but not so and I preferred the perfectly matured 96 and that’s how it goes sometimes. Impressive but not a perfect showing. (97 pts.)
Port
At this point, I was wined out but the 63 Croft still showed its beauty.
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1963 Croft Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Fully matured, dried fruits, toffee, coffee, fruit cakes and anise. Excellent concentration, vibrant energy, sweet fruits and nicely integrated tannins. (94 pts.)
This was a memorable evening with great friends and great wines. Henry brought coconut waters for everyone which really helped next morning.
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