TN: A first look at 2016 red Bordeaux

WINE TALK
1

This trend of some cheaper red Bordeaux being released as soon as a year after the vintage is a fascinating development. I speculate that it is driven by a combination of (1) vintages like '14, '15, and '16 have a modern, approachable style of fruit, and (2) perhaps a realization on the part of the Bordelais that if they are going to attract new fans and stay relevant, they need to reach out to the more casual consumers. And I must say, these two 2016s I tasted over the holidays, plus an early release 2014 I had not so long ago seem to indicate that when Bordeaux decides to make that more approachable style, they can blow the other wines in that category out of the water while still retaining the underlying structure that makes Bordeaux great.

At any rate, these two 2016s showed a very distinct vintage character that is fully consistent with the reports after the harvest: attractive, modern-style fruit, but with excellent acidity keeping it all fresh and vibrant, and a healthy amount of tannin. In short, just plain delicious.

Chateau Charron, Bordeaux 2016
Dark ruby/purple. Low key but rich and somewhat heady nose of fresh berries, with some cured tobacco. On the palate, loads of blackberry, a hint of raspberry, and currants, and then a note of wood toward a nice finish of earthy mineral. Medium-full bodied, with a somewhat savory / fleshy texture; rather juicy and exuberant fruit, excellent acid, and a lot of spicy tannin. Impressively high quality for the price. Drink now or the next 5 years, perhaps longer. 3 Stars. [12/20/17]

Chateau Les Millaux, Bordeaux 2016
100% Merlot. Medium ruby-purple. Juicy blackberry, plum, some cassis, succulent mint, spice, some wood/cedar, and a lot of peppery tanning and mineral. On the light side of full bodied, with juicy fruit, a sweet texture, good tannin and good acid. Should drink nicely for 5 - 8 years. 2.5 Stars [12/24/17]

2

It will be interesting to see how '14 and '16 compare, as your general vintage description of '16 could just as easily be applied to '14. Have you any opinions on that topic, Ryan?

3

Did you buy these locally? Price (if you don’t mind me asking)?

I think at the under $20 point, in great vintages, Bordeaux is an amazing value. Maybe a bit less so as you move up in price point, but even under $30. That said, I still haven’t seen many 2015’s which I am waiting on.

4

Sorry for the much delayed followup, the semester started and I actually forgot that I had posted this!

Good point. I’ve had just one '14 Bdx. That had the same modern style of fruit, with similarly good but more classical structure. Which again, seems very consistent with the post-harvest description. So yes, they seem pretty similar. Though, for my palate, if that more classical structure is characteristic of '14, then I would prefer '14 over '16. But then the data set here is all of three points.

5

I didn’t buy either, they turned up at family Christmas parties, but they would have been purchased in the Kansas City area, and my impression is that these were in the $10 - 15 range.

I’ve had some shockingly good Bordeaux reds in the $10 - 15 range in recent years, particularly from '09 and '10. It has certainly changed my perspective on buying and drinking cheap Bdx.

6

Thank you for the response, Ryan. It will be interesting to track your evolving opinions as you gather additional data points. [cheers.gif]

7

After the better '16s are released, I’m planning to do a 14-15-16 matrix tasting (3 horizontals x 3 verticals).

FWIW, I’ve got a few lesser '15s on hand, will report on those in the near future.

8

Interesting idea for a tasting! I’ve never heard of, or thought of, that format, but I dig it.

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10

Ryan -

Try Chateau de Landiras, Graves, in your comparative. The 2014 is really solid and under $15. It releases early. At the higher end of your range, perhaps try Chateau Lanessan, it ranges around $25, and less in futures. It releases a bit early, also. The 2015 has been on the shelf at Total Wine for quite some time. Another early release wine, now this one is decidedly modern, is the Mathilde by Chateau de Morangie, it’s 100+ year old vine merlot. Not really my style, but it shows well and is a solid big dinner party wine. Ranges $25 and under.

11

what is your rating scale like? it seems strange to see “just plain delicious” followed by 2.5 stars?

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“It’s magically delicious!” gets you a full 3 stars.
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13

i am very curious as to what if anything happened technically / in winemaking in Bordeaux between 2010 and 2014-16. It seems like all the alcohol percentages have gone down by a point or so since 2009-2010, even in a hot year like 2015, and even for the big classed growths. It is particularly noticeable on the left bank. This after alcohol percentages had pretty steadily marched up over the decade of the 2000s, and were starting to get up toward California levels by 2009-10 in some places.

Did the Bordelais start picking earlier? Did they change something in extraction? Did they bleed off alcohol? What’s up? Anybody know?

14

Marcus, which wines are you referring to? I was curious so I had a peek at a few, just in 2010 and 2015:

Lynch-Bages: 13.5 in 2010 and 2015
Pichon Baron - the same
Léo-Poyferré: 14 and 13.5
Pontet-Canet: 14.5 and 13.5 (so that works)
Pape-Clément: 14.5 in both years

On the Right Bank:
Gazin: 14.5 in both
Fombrauge: the same
Troplong-M: 16 and 15.5

Of course this is only a very small sample, but it doesn’t really denote a trend.

FWIW, like you I think that LB wines may be less inclined to push ever upwards, but this is just an impression. I haven’t really found any proof.

I would guess that there would be a couple of reasons for the change: a certain critic is no longer around to praise them for it, but perhaps more logically, it must be a learning curve thing.
For decades, wines were not alcoholic enough so they were very often chaptalized. It’s no secret that some added wines from other regions to the blend to produce the same effect.
Then global warming happened and the levels increased naturally, partly too thanks to modern techniques.
So presumably they now have to deal with the opposite problem - too much alchohol. This happens down south every year - not all top wines from the Languedoc are above 13°. Maybe a little less leaf removal, a little earlier picking? Like you I wonder about it.

I haven’t really answered your question!