I met a friend Mr. L for a very casual dinner of onion soup and salmon and duck rillette at Maison Kayser on the UWS last night. Two people, three bottles, a lot of bread.
Conversation was vinous and far ranging as usual, but as is also typical, French far-ranging. A rare night with Mr. L: no red Bordeaux on the table.
2013 G. Gilles Cornas. Nathan and Keith have pushed me toward Gilles with a gentle nudge. This is my first try. This ain’t Juge. But over a two-hour dinner this has purity in a more classic young Cornas mold of purple fruit, cracked and white pepper, olive tapenade, length, firm but not harsh tannin, and a sense of a 2+ decade future. Opens up nicely and eventually a hint of violets emerges. Mr. L liked it as well and surprised me as having already discovered Gilles. Worked well with the soup and duck rillette. A Humphrey Bogart-Claude Rains moment with this Gilles. I’ll check back tonight.
2016 F. Cotat Culs du Beaujeu. Its typical profile (easy to recognize but somewhat hard to describe — quinine, earth, licorice, a hint of varietal gooseberry) in a midweight format. I like it but it’s not Mr. L’s thing. It’s probably not going to be a 2010, 2008, 2004 stunner, but i predict it will age gracefully and improve on its balance.
NV Ayala Brut Majeur. Attractive rich briochey champagne that benefits from its vigorous bubbles. Air makes it a little steely and lemony in a good way in the finish. 7 g/l dosage is a tad high here. It does well at the table as a dinner Champagne.