TN: A Burgundy Paulée with the Chevaliers du Tastevin

WINE TALK
1

A BURGUNDY PAULÉE WITH THE CHEVALIERS DU TASTEVIN - Hooked Market & Kitchen, Latham, NY (2/6/2022)

This was a Paulée of the Albany-Capital Region chapter of La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. Thus, everyone brought their own wines, nominally one bottle per person. The host for this dinner was Jared Shulman.

Jared and the folks at Hooked did an amazing job. This was one of our very best dinners. The young Executive Chef Javier Villatoro is simply brilliant. The service was excellent. Co-Owners Luke and Katie Haskins should be very proud of their entire team. Hooked has only been open in its current form for about six months and is already one of the best restaurants in the area.

Photos and more details can be found on my website.

Starters
Fresh Shucked Oysters and Clams, Fish Croquettes.

Whites
First Course
Nicoise Salad: Escarole & Frisee, Ahi Tuna Confit, Blistered Tomato,
Poached Egg, Green Beans, Sherry Vinaigrette.

Second Course
Lemon Ricotta Ravioli: Ricotta, Spinach, Lobster Chardonnay Sauce.

Third Course
Poached Halibut with Turnip Puree, Roasted Rainbow Carrots,
Fennel Slaw, Pistachio Herb Pesto.
One of the best dishes I have ever had.

Reds
Filet Mignon with Wild Mushroom & Spring Pea Risotto, Pecorino Romano, Beef Demi.

  • 2016 Maison Albert Bichot Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
    Wow! Nose of cherry liqueur. Young, but truly delicious. Long and complex with a bright future. 95-97 (95 pts.)
  • 2000 Hospices de Beaune Corton-Cuvée Docteur Peste Louis Latour - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    [This was bottled for Joel Spiro, one of most important wine and food people in the area. He was a co-founder of this chapter of the Chevaliers du Tastevin and of my smaller local tasting group. He is sorely missed. Brought by Bill H in Joel’s memory.] Nose is oaky and young. The palate is nicely balanced with juicy, rich red fruit. Delicious. Plenty of life left. (93 pts.)
  • 1996 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Muted smoky nose. Tannins overwhelm the fruit. Better with the steak, but still too much tannin even for a Barolo-lover like me. NR
  • 2008 Domaine Bertagna Clos St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
    Muted nose of mulch and smoke. Bright red fruits. Juicy and complex. Holding up quite well and should continue for another decade. (93 pts.)
  • 1969 Louis Jadot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
    Bright cherry nose. Still appealing, but on its last legs. Drink up! (92 pts.)
  • 1969 Remoissenet Père et Fils Morey St. Denis Les Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
    A hint candied red fruit in a nose of tar and rotting mulch. Mouth is similar. RIP NR
  • 2013 Antonin Guyon Corton-Clos du Roy - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    Youthful nose of red currants and minerals. Sweet red fruit in the mouth. Juicy and tasty. Should age well for at least 10 years. 92-?? (92 pts.)
  • 1997 Antonin Guyon Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Vercots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru
    Sweet and sour red fruit nose. Long and very tasty! (93 pts.)
  • 2012 Maison Roche de Bellene Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
    Big finish! Great nose of red fruit and minerals. Long and complex. Really impressive with a long life ahead. 94-?? (94 pts.)

Dessert
Honey Lavender Trifle: Almond Sponge Cake, White Chocolate Lavender Mousse, Lemon Jelly, Blueberry Compote, Vanilla Chantilly Cream, Honeycomb Toffee.

Conclusion
Another wonderful evening of camaraderie, great food, and terrific wines made all the more special because I hadn’t been in quite a while due to COVID-19.

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