I had this Champagne once before, and it was one of few wines that I can say was significantly impactful to me. In fact, Heidi asked the small group last night ‘what was the greatest wine you’ve ever had?’ and this was one of my two, the other being '04 DRC Echezeaux. I suppose it was because both were incredible wines, but it was more because of how they stood out as altering my view of wine in some way, being that unique and/or memorable.
What I recalled from the '98 Coutier Clos d’Ambonnay I had some months agowas the tremendous nose of crusty fresh-baked bread. I waited a few months for the next bottle, and was not at all disappointed.
The yeast on the nose is just insane, and it’s about the most beautiful yeast you could imagine - not brewer’s yeast, or the yeast you can smell in micro-brewed beer (yes, same thing, only one is in a finished product), but what I would imagine the perfect iteration of yeast would be - slightly sweet, slightly musky, and just rich as can be.
I found that this Champagne, like most, I would imagine, is rather closed up when cold. As it reaches near room temperature is when the nose blossoms. I sat there with my nose in the glass just inhaling its awesomeness.
Not at all disappointed in sipping it either, as it has beautiful crispness, and just the right amount of bubbles to keep it popping in your mouth. More of the beautiful yeast and some green apples or red apple skin come out clearly, and well balanced. No bitterness whatsoever, just seamless transition from one experience to the next, right up to the finish, which is of baked apples - seemingly combining the yeast and fruit into a spectacular dessert.
If you find this Champagne, buy it. If you don’t buy it, PM me and I will buy it.
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