Last night I participated in a long planned tasting of Leoville Las Cases which covered 50 years of vintages with 11 wines. The wines were served in two flights, non-blind and consumed over the course of three hours. Each wine had its own glass for the evening. This was certainly one of the better tastings I have been to in a while as all the wines, while perhaps not at peak, were drinking well. Breads and cheeses were served. Capping it off, were two great Ports. Thanks to all for contributing and to John V. for hosting.
2005 William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Silver gold in color, clear and bright. The nose has green apples. It was a bit cold but even at the end of the evening, the nose while nice had little complexity. Full bodied. Crisp with nice acidity. The palate has green apples. This was a very nice wine. I provided it and had expected more, especially for its $90 price tag. 50+4+13+17+8=92
After some discussion, we decided to do the “younger” wines first, to give them time to open. None of these were decanted. Almost all of these corks showed high levels of saturation. They were from different cellars. Some purchased on release, but not all. The 82, 86 and 90 were easily the crowds favorites on this night.
1982 Leoville Las Cases
Wow. Ruby/purple in color, mostly opaque and bright. The nose took a minute, then really opened up. Leather, cedar, cassis, and pencil shavings. This improved all night long. The palate is smooth and complex. Cassis, cranberry and a bit of earthiness in a complex, not quite at peak form. Long finish. An amazing wine. Hard to believe this is 27 years old. 50+4+14+20+10=98
1986 Leoville Las Cases
Purple/ruby in color, shimmering bright. The nose has black raspberries, cassis, cedar and is a bit dusty. This is a monster wine that is still young. The palate has black raspberries and black cherries. Almost port like on the finish. This was probably the best bottle on the table or at least would have been had it been allowed to mature for another 5 to 10 years. It actually got the most first place votes. 50+5+14+20+9=98
1988 Leoville Las Cases
Ruby in color with some purple swirls. The nose has sandalwood, cassis, black raspberries and pencil shavings. Silky texture. On the palate, this has black raspberries, boysenberries. Slightly clipped on the finish. Really a very good wine, but not in the category of others in this flight. 50+4+13+18+7=92
1989 Leoville Las Cases
Ruby in color with some purple. The nose has cassis, black raspberries, cedar and pencil shavings. Medium tannins. The palate has black raspberries, cassis and some black licorice. Long finish. This is in a good place right now. I am not sure if it gets any better, but no hurry. 50+4+13+18+8=93
1990 Leoville Las Cases
Ruby in color, purple at the core, mostly clear and bright. The nose is explosive with cherries, cassis, dust, pencil shavings and a slight earthy note. This is complex and layered. Mature but still has a bit of youth left. Cassis, black raspberries and a bit of moist earth. This bottle rocked. Mine and the groups WOTN. And yes, color was the place I took a point off, although I am sure this was not a 100 point wine anyway, it was the easiest place it lacked perfection. This kept getting better in the glass all night long. Stunning wine. 50+4+15+20+10=99
1995 Leoville Las Cases
The closest wine we had to being too young. While it was young, it still had plenty to offer up. Ruby at the rim, inky purple at the core. The nose is dusty with cassis and pencil lead. Full bodied. Sweet black raspberry fruit on the palate. This is tannic yet juicy. Very young. Needs five more years easily to peak. That said, this was awesome. 50+5+14+19+9=97
For the second flight, all wines were decanted for sediment and immediately poured:
1945 Leoville Las Cases
The cork came out in one piece. We were unable to determine the vintage on it. The bottle was a purchase almost 10 months ago from PC from Nicholas Cellars. Ruby in color shimmering bright with some purple. The fill was bottom neck. It was tight out of the bottle but got stronger for about an hour then slowly faded. Aromas of cassis and dust. Similar to the others. Full bodied. Complex. On the palate, this has cassis and raspberries and earth. Even some tannins came out with air. The tasters with more experience at older bottles than I believed this wine to be genuine. I was shocked how well it showed. Given its provenance, we knew it had a good chance though. 50+4+12+18+7=91
1961 Leoville Las Cases
Top shoulder fill. The only bottle we had not bottled at the Chateau (Nicholas) and was a bit of an outlier both in terms of label and style. Still, we had no reason to believe it was not genuine. Ruby in color, with some browning. The nose is slight but opened with air for about 45 minutes before falling apart. Cassis, forest floor, old leather. On the palate, this has some cherry fruit and an earthy/forest floor note. This was nice to drink and better than I had expected. 50+4+12+17+6=89
1970 Leoville Las Cases
Ruby in color with some browning. The nose is earthy, forest floor, dust and some cassis. It is complex on the palate, but lacking a lot of fruit. It’s the kind of wine I knew I would like more that the group. Cassis and cherries are there but delicate. Complex though. Turns slightly tart on the finish. Past prime, but still good. 50+3+13+18+7=91
1975 Leoville Las Cases
Purple/ruby in color, mostly clear and bright. The nose is dusty with cassis, pencil shavings and some cherries. Full bodied. On the palate, this has nice sweet red raspberries, cassis and leather. Mature but not past prime. Still some firm tannins. The third time I have had this wine and the first time it seemed like the tannins were fading and the fruit was still there. Nice showing. 50+4+13+18+8=93
1978 Leoville Las Cases
Ruby/purple in color, clear and bright. The nose is dusty with cherries and cassis. Light tannins. Sweet fruit but this wine was a bit past its prime. I would gladly drink it but it was easily the groups last place wine. That said, there is some fruit left and while it was slightly acidic, not too bad and some cheese brought it around. Drink up sooner though. 50+4+12+16+6=88
John then finished the evening with some stellar ports:
1977 Grahams
Decanted 5 hours. Light ruby in color, clear and bright. The nose is wonderful. It has raspberries, a bit of alcohol, and camphor. On the palate, prunes, raisins, slightly sweet with a bit of heat. Really nice wine. 50+3+14+18+7=92
1945 Grahams
Decanted 3 hours. Wow, two 45’s at one tasting. Ruby/purple/brown in color. The nose is great with chocolate covered raisings. On the palate, this ha cocoa, caramel and raspberries. The most complex port I ever had. There is some alcohol/heat on this which Jeff said was the spirit showing thru. It kept this from being scored higher but really didn’t diminish my enjoyment of it. Long finish. This was recorked by Whitham (sp?) in 1981. 50+3+15+19+7=94