I had never had this, or probably any Bandol blanc, I saw it at Hi Time and decided to broader my horizons a bit, especially because I admire their rose and reds. I think it was $44 at Hi Time.
I had a glass last night, then left the mostly full bottle recorked in the fridge, had more tonight, letting it gradually warm up towards cellar temp.
The short version is that tastes like a lighter colored, lighter bodied, lower alcohol Rhone white. Maybe a non-oxidative Rioja white in a lighter style.
The Chris-Seiber-lame-attempt-at-descriptors version is that the nose has some sea spray, unsweet fruit like grapefruit rind, peach pit. The palate is light bodied, some grapefruit, unripe peach, honeysuckle. The finish is what especially recalls the Rhone to me, bitter almond and hazelnut skin, and the slightest hint of white spice but you have to really look for it.
Not surprisingly, this is a lot better as it warms to cellar temp and maybe warmer, as you can pick up more of the fruit and flower hints and the bitterness of the finish moderates some. I wouldn’t be surprised if this improved a little over the short to medium term, though I don’t think it’s a long aging type wine (someone feel free to tell me if I’m wrong about that – that’s just a guess from what’s in my glass).
It’s an understated, pretty wine, one that a wine geek who likes a certain style could contemplate and enjoy in a cerebral way on occasion. I also admire that it’s just something different. Having said that, the bitter almond/hazelnut skin thing in whites has never really been my jam, and I don’t know that I would seek it out again myself.
I thought this was a particularly nice write up! Especially since I’ve always been curious about Cassis and Bandol Blanc. Thinking Provence, my mind immediately went to Ugni Blanc and Rolle (Vermentino). However it looks like the wine not only includes those two varieties, but also Marsanne, Bourboulenc and Clairette. The latter three are likely adding quite a bit of body/texture, white florals, and that neutral almond, stone fruit pit character.
Personally Marsanne has never really landed for me, nor the limited Bourboulenc I’ve had. Clairette can create some charm, but overall they genuinely create quite a bland and neutral profile. On their own Ugni Blanc and Rolle have beautiful high toned fruit. I suppose this is a style that demands seafood where the neutral, round structure palate works with the brine of the ocean.
I’d much rather have some of the other Rhone blancs which are really underrated when not overdone, or head more alpine towards Savoie (and Roussanne/Chignon Bergeron).
You’ve described this better than I did on a previous vintage, but I noted that it was enjoyable, mellow and understated. I am fond of their rose and their aged reds, and the blanc did not seem to be in the league as those. The price also does not reflect the experience for me, I’d be a buyer in the $10-$20 range.
When travelling in the area, I was generally impressed with the whites from Cassis and Bandol that had a lot of Clairette and Ugni Blanc in the blend. I thought they seemed to have more acidity and vibrancy. I have a 2021 in the refrigerator ready to go.
Thanks counselor. I’ve had the Tempier blanc a few times but rarely written it up. Here is one, from my fall California trip last year:
2021 Domaine Tempier Bandol Blanc
Always pleased to see this, got just a tinge of earthy and truffle on the bouquet, wrapped up in white fruit. Rather shy on the tongue, give this some time to unfurl. Sweetish lemondrop among the fruit.
I will say that Clairette can make a compelling wine on its own - IIRC, it is now the ‘preferred white’ of Gigondas as well. And a selfish plug - I do make a 100% Clairette which is pretty killer . . .
Bandol or generally Provence blanc always seems like a good idea but they usually leave me lacking something. A notable exception: Clos Saint Vincent. Chateau Simone comes close. At the moment I am rather seeking out Corsican whites.
