From the moment I started tasting some of the Bourgognes, I had a feeling 2022 was going to be a red burgundy vintage very much to my liking. And as I taste a handful of the heavier hitters here and there, I think this is going to be my “retirement” vintage. I will still buy selectively from 2023 onward, but 2022 is the last vintage I plan to cellar in a much broader range than usual- and I have high hopes they will bring much joy in a present and future where 30 years of experience guide careful selection for the next stage in life where I will be drinking wine far less frequently than I did in 2019 and prior.
Curious to hear the take of others on the vintage. It is certainly not a “big” vintage, nor does it have any particular positive excesses that make it stand out. Rather, to me, it is just right- midweight, charming and alluring. I do not see it winning any big blind tastings 20 years from now, but I cannot imagine a better choice for the dinner table.
Clos des Ducs is not normally something I would even consider opening young, but it was a spur of the moment special occasion to celebrate a great career move for a friend ITB and the best choice available. Happily we hit the right vintage and timing for this to be a very enjoyable experience.
2022 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs
on opening a bright attractive red-purple color, alluring nose of violets and cherry, a bit of spicy plum, soaring, penetrating, on the palate fresh earth and cherry notes at the front, taut and streamlined across the middle with primary red and black fruits, and then a fine peacock’s tail on the end leading into a long finish with broad spice notes, cherry, rose petals and blackberries, with 30 minutes of airing a hint of cherry liqueur adds a bit of opulence, 6 hours later the wine is far more close with cinnamon and other baking spices coating primary and fully harmonized fruits on the nose, on the palate tightening up but still with some punchy joy to it- ala 2006 but more floral and enticing, elegant lean long finish of intense fragrance- now with chalk and earth notes to accompany the floral notes, this is not as grand in scale as it can be- but for my palate and dinner table this is just what I seek in great burgundy, not the wisest of choices when opening a young burgundy- we were happily rewarded this time with a solid glimpse of the great days to come, if you are tempted to try this young it is critical to enjoy a full taste soon after opening as well as with air, Champans is my usual choice to check in on d’Angerville at release- but I have no regrets for taking a run at Clos des Ducs this year.
( ***** ), 2032++, I think the 22s will have a broad drinking window but even so 2032 might be wishful thinking, 2037 or so a safer bet. Time will tell.
