2021 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu (4/28/2024)
My first Kumeu River of any sort, whose strong reputation of Chards (and this top site) had me most curious to fact check the hype. It took about 1.5 sips to confirm a resounding affirmation. So clearly an elite wine, with dazzling breadth and scope. At once rich and generous, but with a coiled up tension and verve, crackling acidity, a mineral presence that went on for days....Many notes in CT for this producer make the inevitable comparison to Burgundy, any many comment that this is not fair, this deserves it own contemplation within its own terms. I agree. That being said, if one were to slip this blind into a high end 1er of Meursault or Puligny tasting, I’m confident some real damage could ensue. 94 is conservative in my book. This has nothing but blue skies ahead. (94 points)
Thanks for the note. I have some 17s and 19s in the cellar but haven’t tried them yet. I did have the 2021 Rays Road, however, and found it similarly excellent.
This was my first Kumeu as well and I couldn’t agree more. And I bet that pairing took it to new heights! I would strongly recommend keeping stock of their estate wine. One of the best Chardonnays for >$30.
Even their ‘Village’ wine is solid. I went through some years back, but have not seen their offerings on local shelfs recently, presumably only offered via real fine wine retailers now.
I really liked this wine when I had it. I do think stylistically it is a touch different than most white burgs. To me it was more like a hybrid of Chablis and white burg in terms of freshness and floral character.
Leeuwin Art Series chard on the other hand…now that’s a white burg ringer.
These wines have the irresistible (to me) combination of reasonable pricing and immediate appeal. I have yet to see one with any signs of development because none last more than three years in my cellar. There is a difference in personalities across the range too, so more than just a one-note address. Screw cap closure also leads to impulse selection when I have people tapping their feet impatiently outside the cellar door.
Added some of the 21 Hunter Hill and likely to get the Estate as well soon.
BTW - For Vinous subscribers, Neal Martin had a terrific write up of Kumeu River back in Feb 2019, loaded with both historical back ground, make up of the various sites (he loves HH), and TN’s of many older vintages. Great read.
