I’ve been meaning to try this producer for a minute but I guess I’ve not been in a rush due to 1) actively avoiding 2020 in this region and 2) half-expecting the wines to be similar to Pattes Loup which I like but do not adore. Here were are, though, and I’m extremely excited with what I found. With no exaggeration this is the best new Chablis experience in years. It plays with the classic strengths of the appellation and performs easily at the 1er cru level. Need to buy more, fast.
2021 Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret Chablis Les Pargues - France, Burgundy, Chablis (15.5.2024)
The nose smells of seabreeze and sunshine. The zesty notes are abundant, as is a big whiff of iodine. Some leesy notes are also present here on this brightest of notes. On the palate it has good volume and presence, an ethereal mouthfeel and appropriately high acidity. It is markedly crisp and savory with a positively tight, tangy finish. For a new school Chablis it is awfully classic, linear and minerally with not much of a nod to Côte de Beaune’s direction, although the vintage might play a role in that. It ranks very high in terms of intensity yet it drinks massively well, making one crave for the magnum format. This is really excellent all the way.
What is it that keeps you from loving the Pattes Loup? Just trying to get a better idea of what you do like in the Vocoret. It sounds really good and I haven’t tried one before. I find the Pattes Loup delicious. If I have any issue with them it is that they are almost too easy to drink and lack classical Chablis structure but that’s a minor quibble.
It’s purely a stylistic thing. I would say it’s mostly that they are pretty atypical for Chablis while usually not quite having the same intensity as say Raveneau (which too are pretty atypical for Chablis). I did love Pico’s 2013 Butteaux though! I’ll happily drink Pattes Loup whenever offered, I just don’t feel like purchasing anymore especially as the prices have been increasing. For my palate this wine appeals a ton more than Pico’s entry level Chablis.
Just tried another 2021 bottling from Vocoret. Not quite the success as Les Pargues but a good wine in the same style nevertheless. Need to try the Bas de Chapelot soon.
2021 Domaine Eleni et Edouard Vocoret Chablis En Boucheran - France, Burgundy, Chablis (16.10.2024)
Reductive on the nose with restrained citrusy fruit, leesy yeastiness, struck match, a modest amount of wood and some vegetal notes like nettle. On the palate it is a bit on the lighter side but seemingly gaining more body as it breathes. Not very ripe at all but there is certain airiness to it that adds to the enjoyment. The acidity is on point as there is good lift and freshness, a bit of tension too. The flavors are largely similar to the aromatics with the restrained lemony fruit and slight woody and smoky notes. For my palate it could be just a bit richer - it doesn’t quite strike the perfect balance Les Pargues did in this vintage - but clearly it is a very nice wine with a rather distinct style.
