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2020 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/11/2023)
Early check in on one of my very favorite Spätlese wines. I have been enjoying this Selbach bottling for 30 years, and had high hopes for the 2020. It did not disappoint.
Crisp apple and peach aromas were echoed on the almost Feinherb style palate, that veered a touch toward the tropical while staying anchored to tree fruit. I kept trying to pinpoint what it was reminding me of, and finally realized it was a crisp fall apple called Kinsei that has a tropical bent to its flavors.
The one thing I will add is that the wine might actually be a bit closed, as there was a tightness on the palate that masked what was clearly a lot of depth. I suppose at three years post vintage it’s quite possible the wine is shutting down. Either way it was still quite delicious, just need to be patient for it to fully emerge. I generally prefer this bottling with 15 years or so of age on it.
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I must stay strong, I must stay strong, I must stay strong.
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I’m weak enough for both of us.
This wine was a regular on the list of my all-time favorite restaurant here, long since closed, that went so well with food so full of spice, acid, and flavor. The quality and reasonable price relative to other things on the list seemed a little like an insider thing, like getting away with something.
Oh, you are buying it for my cellar?
Hey David, what are your thoughts about this vs the Spätlese feinherb ur Alte Reben? I have had the 2019 (flamboyantly delicious) and picked up some of the 2020, but haven’t tried it yet. Presumably that comes from the oldest vines, but any idea why they would specifically ferment that one down the feinherb?
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They are very different wines, from different parcels in the vineyard, but with the same skeletal structure. The old, ungrafted parcel gets its own wine, and presumably (I have not asked Johannes) ferments on its own to the Feinherb level.
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