The missus was not feeling like drinking wine tonight so I went for a category she deeply dislikes - rosé. Of course this is PYCM so I was not terribly surprised when her reaction tasting from my glass was: ”Hey, this is pretty good! It doesn’t have that vomit note most rosés have.” I totally agree with her, though, and find this to reach the lofty standards that come with these four letters on the label.
2020 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Rosé de Pinot-Noir- France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (23.3.2022)
The nose is very gentle and restrained with cherry-driven red fruit, a slight kiss of oak and a yeasty note. The palate is dry and relatively light-bodied with absolutely delicious red fruit that makes me think of cherry and wild strawberries. It sports very good acidity and the kind of mouthfeel that makes me think of white Burgundy with its judicious oak and airiness. I find it very refined and elegant, just what you would expect from this address, and pretty singular as far as rosés go. While not complex aromatically, it is the textural qualities that elevate the wine to a very good level. Now this is something to buy more of.
This one has gotten better over the past year. At release, it was straight-forward fruity and lacked mid-palate depth and complexity. A bottle sampled last week was more fleshed out with a nice lemon-raspberry acidic streak holding it all together. It isn’t too difficult to find better value out there, IMO, but this is a good rose of Pinot Noir.
In Europe the PYCM prices (whites, mostly) saw a rapid rise last year. The biggest single increase percentage-wise I witnessed was the entry level Hautes-Côtes de Beaune going from 29€ to 79€ which is just nuts. It’s hard to see this wine avoiding that fate. I paid 24€ but am not expecting to buy future vintages as cheaply (or, rather, at all at above 35€ or thereabouts).
To calibrate, my statement on value is based upon a $40 price point in my market. I can get Crochet and Reverdy Sancerre Rose for that price and both of those compare favorably. I buy all three most years.