TN: 2020 Pierre Gonon Ardèche Les Iles Feray

The last few years, I’ve been getting it in the $60s on release in very small quantity. This is in the US. If you look later it seems to be more like $90+. Seems like those magically lucky folks with EU allocations get it for a lower price.

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2021

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Current street price makes no sense.

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had a bottle of the 2020 last night at chambers in nyc. restaurant price was $95 which i thought was a steal since ive seen it retail for $85. after it opened up, the wine was lithe and quite pleasant.

i found some 2021 bottles for $70 which i thought was quite good. its certainly a bit overpriced but enjoyable nonetheless.

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Just tasted at Gonon yesterday. I have to say, I taste with a lot of great winemakers but this visit was one of the most enjoyable of the year (and not just because I didn’t have to take any notes). There has clearly been real progression over the last decade at this address, and 2016 for example tasted next to 2010 feels a lot more than merely six years younger. The wines are so pure and characterful and expressive. The 2021s from tank, which will be bottled in the spring, were especially appealing for their throwback style without being austere or especially tightly wound.

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Sweet!

My attempt at a note and civilized thread on the 2016 when I first checked in shortly after delivery, but as natural, the thread derailed . . . .

I don’t think I have touched it yet, so should till be sitting on 11 bottles of this lovely stuff.

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I’ve not had any Gonon from the last decade, i.e. beyond the 2012 vintage. I suppose I should go for them, given that I found the stretch from 2005 to 2012 to have been remarkably good. Plus, the 1989/1990 revealed just how well the wines can age.

For me, hard to think of anyone in the Northern Rhône that is doing better with what they’ve got than the Gonon brothers.

The pricing discussion seems to me to be more related to what the wines used to cost, vs what they are “worth”. You can still pay a lot more in the Northern Rhône to get a lot less. Ex-domaine to private clients I believe they’re around 35, I pay around 50 as far as I can recall from my wine merchant who gives me a case a year. I wouldn’t enjoy them any less at double that.

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William, was there any discussion about the VV? I have wondered if they are annoyed at the hype it’s generated, and might stop bottling it.

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I think they’re still bottling it, just not releasing it. We tasted a barrel of the old vines, quite remarkable!

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I managed to buy 2 bottles of 2020 St Joseph from a local importer. No experience at all with the domaine but from what I read here looking forward to getting to know them. Any views on 2020 and how far back in the cellar I need to hide them?

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While the Iles Feray can cellar quite nicely, the brothers don’t really consider it something you’re supposed to keep and I tend to drink mine young while waiting for the Saint-Joseph. 2020 is very expressive and will already give you a sense of the style.

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If you have never tasted a Gonon i would go for it and open one!

I really like Gonon, but the wines are at a strange price point for me. I don’t have an allocation so i need to pay around 100€ per bottle to get them. I do think they are worth that, but with limited funds i much rather go for 3x Francois Dumas or go a little higher for a Jamet.

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Can you still find Jamet for less than 150€?

Thanks for the note. I have one on deck for tonight along with some cider and champagne.

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I can find them for around 150. It is not easy, but possible.

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Yeah, that’s the best I’ve been seeing too.

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While I disagree with my ‘muscular and sexy’ friend here in stating this wine is indeed a daily drinker (provided you have access to these wines, which is ever-dwindling, apparently) and an incredibly enjoyable one, even while young. My other friend @Jorge_Henriquez would agree with me, as he refers to this wine as ‘The Poors’ Gonon’. At $40 ish upon release, I guess it’s true, but ‘aftermarket’ on this wine shoots up to $90 quickly, because…you know…Gonon!

I was excited to try this wine, to participate in this thread, namely with this commentary from William Kelley:

What stands out most for me on this wine is it’s liveliness - it really pops on your palate - tongue and gumline, lifting, popping acidity, and full of character, as WK pointed out. I’m mainly accustomed to the big, bruising Gonon St. Josephs of 2007-2010, which is what I have enjoyed the most of (and the 2010 is STILL a big, brooding monster of a wine, even with many hours of air!) but on this wine I get more complexity and interest on the palate than any Gonon I’ve had. The fruit profile still is very dark, and there’s a beautiful earthy and herbal component as well. Incredibly enjoyable and entertaining wine, delivering quality and interest throughout.

Big fan.

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Wonderful notes, Todd!

It’s been a lot of years since I could get more than one or two at a reasonable price. Like so many other things. Plenty of other good options thankfully. Like not buying more wine for instance. And after every year I say no more Gonon and still
end up with a couple somehow.

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