Just got my annual Gonon box a week ago. Since my allocation of St Joe got cut from 12 to 6 - evidently I’m not a big enough Balla, or @ToddFrench stole my other 6 - so I’m just checking the baby Gonon not the big boy Gonon. Those will sit.
Ok, clearly another warm vintage. So we got 2015, 18, 19 and now 20, notice a trend? Give me cool vintage, give me love!
At least Gonon carries heat like I carry weight - muscular and sexy. This 2020 Iles Feray drinks like a Gonon St Joe from 10-15 years ago. This vineyard, and “country” VDP wine, truly is coming into its own. And is now priced accordingly. Shite ain’t cheap no longer. Showing some bold dark fruits, charcoal, briny seashore and herbs. Big meaty mouthfeel. Quite primary, as you would expect, but it’s got a solid acidic spline to carry the weight of this vintage. I am feeling some red fruits on the outer edges of the palate. Chewy, tannic finish. This wine needs time. These are not daily drinkers anymore.
Thanks for the report. Ile is quite the ‘second wine’. For some reason I ended up with a bunch of the ‘18s and am enjoying them a lot while the SJ sleeps.
Sounds great Robert. I’ve always found the IdF so forward and bold, but in the absolute best possible way. This was one of my favorite wines for many years, but sadly I no longer receive any. For all their immediate charms, they do handle some age. A recent 2011 was drinking wonderfully, while the 2009 sampled last year was perhaps headed downhill. I certainly iss the days of getting a case of this each year for something like $17 a bottle.
Yea the days of getting this buy the case, like the Clape Vin de Amis, are long gone! My allocation of the Iles Feray is actually 1/2 of my allocation of the St Joe, lol. This year I got 9 St Joe and 3 Iles Feray. I thought I only got 6 St Joe, but there were 9 in my box, I forgot I got 3 more on the second round. More than enough for me at 57! I was just at my lockers, I may now have more Gonon than anything, with Levet a close second.
Just received my 2020s too, kid’s birthyear so looking forward to trying in 18 or so years. Didn’t take any IDF though, seemed not so great value while the St Joe at 75€/bottle I find still fair.
And the 2007 has been past it for several years. A friend has served me several bottles over several years, and they’ve all been distinctly tired – to the point I didn’t find them enjoyable.
The last few years, I’ve been getting it in the $60s on release in very small quantity. This is in the US. If you look later it seems to be more like $90+. Seems like those magically lucky folks with EU allocations get it for a lower price.
had a bottle of the 2020 last night at chambers in nyc. restaurant price was $95 which i thought was a steal since ive seen it retail for $85. after it opened up, the wine was lithe and quite pleasant.
i found some 2021 bottles for $70 which i thought was quite good. its certainly a bit overpriced but enjoyable nonetheless.
Just tasted at Gonon yesterday. I have to say, I taste with a lot of great winemakers but this visit was one of the most enjoyable of the year (and not just because I didn’t have to take any notes). There has clearly been real progression over the last decade at this address, and 2016 for example tasted next to 2010 feels a lot more than merely six years younger. The wines are so pure and characterful and expressive. The 2021s from tank, which will be bottled in the spring, were especially appealing for their throwback style without being austere or especially tightly wound.
I’ve not had any Gonon from the last decade, i.e. beyond the 2012 vintage. I suppose I should go for them, given that I found the stretch from 2005 to 2012 to have been remarkably good. Plus, the 1989/1990 revealed just how well the wines can age.
