2020 Kilburg Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett- Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (12/27/2021)
Shared with a friend who is also a big fan of wines from the Ohligsberg. This bottle was less precocious than the 2019 Kilburg Goldtröpfchen Kabinett, but just as enjoyable in its own way. It ultimately felt more old school Kabinett due to greener aromas and flavors, as opposed to the yellow and orange tones of the Goldtröpfchen. The balance of sweetness and acidity was well judged, and integrated. I suspect this wine will ultimately taste quite dry and still balanced in another ten to fifteen years. Of course the likelihood of my other bottle surviving that long is quite low, approaching zero. So I will have to content myself with pursuing the 2020 for longer term cellaring.
Overall a true Kabinett from this climate challenged era that gives a clear nod to the past, and is clearly of its place.
Still need to pull a bottle of each to try…when my storage unit reopens.
Aside from Julian Haart and Reinhold Haart, I don’t know what other estates make wine from Ohligsberg that make it to the U.S. The former obviously is quite hard to find. I have a couple bottles of 2016 Ohligsberg spätlese from the latter.
One of the best kabinetts (and locations) in the Middle Mosel and must buy in every vintage for the exact reasons you wrote. Max has an great eye for picking grapes in just right moment; Ohligsberg is never heavy (even 2018 was slim) and balanced with high but mature acidity. I’m sure things will change soon but Kilburg whole range of wines is still very(!) cheap and a lot easier to buy compared to say Haart.
It’s a shame that Steinmetz won’t make any kabinett nor other sweeter prädikats from Ohligsberg as with kabi-skills he has I’m sure that it would be stunning stuff.
Bollig Ohligsberg kabinett is very good and he also produce very good dry wines. Regular dry Ohligsberg is already really good but old vines one made from a small plot of over 100 years old ungrafted vines (released for the first time this year) is some next level stuff!
As for other producers; Jochen Clemens has very good wines made from Ohligsberg but they are mainly spätlese in these days. He has quite good availability of old vintages and tends to release wines really late too. I really like he’s wines!
It’s worth noting that Reinhold Haart’s portion of the expanded 1971 Einzellage Wintricher Ohligsberg is on a west-facing slope. The original Ohligsberg, where Julian Haart has his holdings, faces south.
Also any info about their Goldtrofchen holdings vs Haart would be greatly appreciated.
I tasted the '20 Kabinetts blinded side by side about and the Haart wine was richer, and more textured while the Kilburg was more lifted and acidic. They had the same bright apricot and citrus fruit flavors but quite different expressions of the site.
I met with Max on Thursday to pick up our Kabis (all 3 made). Spatlese bottled but awaiting labels, Trocken still in tank. Spotted Source Material labels…
