TN: 2020 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc (France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan)

WINE TALK
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2020 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (3/24/2023)
– popped and poured –
– tasted non-blind over 2 to 3 hrs. –
– 58% Sauv. Blanc, 42% Semillon –

NOSE: seems to be dominated by Sauv. Blanc; green grapes and gooseberry combo; light oak.

BODY: bright pale yellow color; medium-light bodied.

TASTE: bright and juicy; medium+ to high acidity; drops-off on the finish — most of the action is on the front palate; nice breadth on front and mid palate, but lacking depth; a touch flinty on the light finish; hint of powdery hard candy – maybe Sweet Tarts or Smarties? little hint of something green – green tomato; 13.5% alc. not noticeable; it’s good, with a pleasant flavor profile, but ultimately it’s not interesting or compelling. Not a re-buy at $35. Both Ash and I gave this “88” for gut impression score.

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I was just reading David peppercorn old book on Bordeaux and he thinks their blanc is better than their rouge.

I think white graves in general is just bad QPR

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Dry white Bordeaux in general has lost its way. The wrong varieties, with the wrong vine genetics, planted in the wrong places and vinified the wrong way. It really is the perfect storm.

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Absolutely. I’ve been looking for something drinkable for almost 4 years.

They taste of oak or Sauvignon Blanc.

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Try Couhins, the “C de Sec” from Château Cloisot by J-M Guffens, or the last two or three vintages of Fieuzal.

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This is the only white of theirs I’ve tried; it’s unlikely I’ll be trying another anytime soon. Their red, on the other hand, is a wine I’ve recently made into an annual “gotta try at least one bottle” wine; I quite liked the '15 and '16 here, although the '19 was less to my liking.

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Sounds grim and like a lot to unpack. Unfortunate because Bdx blanc can be among the most sublime white wines. The market for the consumer has too many expensive, and may I say overpriced, cuvees and scant pickings in the more affordable range. Yet there is an ocean of grapes in the region. Seems like Bdx blanc and its associated issues might be a great topic to expose for a talented wine writer :wink:

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