Notes from a tasting last night here in Dallas. There were over 20 wines present, but as I had a long night of day job work ahead of me, I kept it to 15 notes taste-and-spit on a whirlwind visit before the event got into full swing. At the time I tasted, the wines had been decanted for about 3 hours prior to being returned to bottle for pouring.
2020 proved a very challenging vintage to taste- the wines are massive in scale, and while the substantial tannins tended to be rounded and well-buried, so too were many of the hallmark nuances of individual wines. And even with only 15 wines tasted, I had to break twice for a quick bit of food and a rest to cleanse the palate before pressing on.
The best news is that this is not another 2003. As in red burgundy, a number of these Bordeaux had a distinct roasted plum character unique to the vintage, but some did not- and I did not encounter any wines that showed the excesses which now plague many 2003s. The scale of the fruit and tannins overall is on the level of 1986 or 2000- but the fruit is maybe halfway down the path to 2003 on average in terms of ripeness, plus the wines did not display some of the obvious heat that was present on many 2003s.
The bad news is that these, I think, are going to take a very long time to come around- again take a 1986/2000 mentality here. Some wines are already closing up, and I anticipate a long hibernation. Beyond that, with so many details and nuances buried deep- it could easily be 20-30 years before the top wines truly unfurl and show all their secondary and tertiary details. Much the same can be said today of some 2000s- notably Latour which was far more approachable than expected, but still very primary. There will be, I believe, some degree of sacrifice of the details due to the sheer volume and power of the fruit with some of these wines- but overall they are well balanced, and in a couple of cases actually very nicely balanced compared to other recent vintages where certain chateaux have been a bit heavy with the oak.
Notes presented in order tasted. Star ratings in brackets as estimates due to the wines’ early stage of development and the speed with which I had to pass through them.
2020 Chateau Haut-Brion
rich deep purple color, sweet plum and cherry on the nose, very fruit driven, minimal herb notes, on the palate a joyous and buttery fruit that immediately reminded me of how the 1995 was at release, as with the nose- the palate is heavily fruit dominated, black plums, cassis, cherries, perfect ripeness, rounded, very good length, I have not been enamored of the oak levels and concentration here in vintages like 2014- but in 2020 the sheer power of the fruit is making for a good overall balance more akin to the past.
[****, 2040+]
2020 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
bright purple red color, fruit-dominant nose, cassis with hints of pencil lead, violet and boxwood, on the palate the ripe fruit quickly gives way to a closed mid-palate with substantial- but rounded- tannins, cherry notes, a bit of chalk, great length, despite its reluctance today- clearly a very fine vintage for Lafite.
[****+, 2045+]
2020 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild
inky purple color- far darker than both Haut-Brion and Lafite (moreso than usual), on the nose sexy spice notes, plus, cassis, mineral notes prominent on the nearly shut-down palate, strong but rounded tannins, firm oak a noticeable presence- but in proper proportion, the most shut-down of the first growths but also the one showing the greatest number of glimpses at its nuances.
[****, 2040+]
2020 Le Petit de Mouton Rothschild
medium deep purple-red color, very ripe nose- almost roasted, strong oak, on the palate rolling and slightly sweet fruit, indulgent, soft tannins, good finish- nicely fragrant, not as tight as Mouton but still somewhat restrained in the middle.
[***, 2030+]
2020 Chateau Palmer
good deepish purple color, nose of glorious mulberry fruit, very pure and alluring, perfect ripeness, cassis and cascades of violets, chalk and dark chocolate notes, on the palate something of a contrast- fruit forward with buried tannins, notable note of roasted plums, the palate then goes mute on a good finish lacking fanfare, still it is early days- so that is not yet of great concern.
[***+, 2035+, this showed best on the nose, if the rest catches up this will be a top 2020]
2020 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou
deepish purple color, racy nose with a bit of liniment, cherry, strong ferrous and earth notes, on the palate a mirror image making for a wonderful and expressive wine, ideal ripeness as well, great length, very fine.
[****+ to *****, 2040+ a long wait, but it will be worth it]
2020 Chateau Leoville Las Cases
medium deep purple color, rolling waves of red and black fruit on the nose, berry and plum nicely overlaid with textures of clay and white minerals, on the palate closed around the edges with a clear view in the center of an attractive array of primary cherry, plum and cassis, despite the excesses of the vintage this manages to remain its usual seamless self, good finish.
[***+, 2030+ if more nuance develops with time, I will have underrated this]
2020 Chateau Pichon-Lalande
medium deep purple color, pure cassis fruit on the nose- slightly roasted, some oak spice, plum note, on the palate a buttery and joyous fruit akin to the Haut-Brion, for the moment this is all fruit on the palate- and showing beautifully, out of all the wines served tonight this is the one I would open now for dinner if I had to choose, good length, lovely wine and the only question is whether its hallmark nuances will fully emerge in time or if this will remain more fruit-driven.
[***+, 2030+]
2020 Chateau Pichon Baron
deepish purple color, cassis, red plums and raspberry on the nose, notable oak, light bramble, on the palate a firm earth note, darker spectrum of fruit, tannins and oak a more overt presence, very good length and also very good balance- of late I have often found this wine over-oaked in recent vintages but the sheer power of 2020 reduces that risk greatly here.
[***+, 2040+]
2020 Chateau Cos d’Estournel
deep purple red color, muted nose showing only dark fruit notes, a bit of plum and pepper, on the palate roasted and overtly sweet, very primary, oak presence stinging and too strong for my tastes, also has something of a heavy feel to it, many at the event liked this very much FWIW- and as with the Pichon Lalande it is easier to approach tonight than most.
[***?, 2040+ as with the 1986 I think this is going to take a very long time to get there]
2020 Chateau Leoville-Barton
inky purple color, lovely nose, ripe cassis, a bit of oak spice, crushed blackberries, on the palate perfectly ripe- just perfect, lively assertive tannins, the mid-palate is sheer joy with racy mineral and berry notes to accompany the pure and effortlessly beautiful cassis and cherry fruit, great length with a light chalk note, this shows the power and punch of the vintage without the potential excesses better than just about every other wine here tonight, superb.
[****+ - *****, 2030+ a long distance runner for sure, but this I think will be turning the corner in 10 years]
2020 Chateau Calon-Segur
very dark purple-red color, textured nose of wild raspberries, cherry, mint and young bramble, on the palate most attractive with beautiful balance and respectable restraint, a mid-weight and the most “classic” wine on the table tonight- like Magdelaine it wears its vintage honorably but with no excess to distract from its base character, cherry fruit on the palate with a light punch note, fine length.
[****, 2035+]
2020 Chateau Canon
bright red purple color, smooth and slippery nose, strong clay earth note, polished- perhaps overly so- but also with perfectly ripe berry fruit with chalk notes, on the palate deep and dense but lacking the excesses of both the vintage and other wines that have turned “modern” of late, firm oak presence, heavy old school tannins that are nicely buried, I rather like this and I am tempted to think that- as with Palmer and Mouton- Canon has found a nice balance of the traditional and new ways of things that will yield something a bit different in time but still true to its roots and of appeal to an AFWEer like me.
[***+, 2040+ it did show nicely today but instinctively I think this one will need a good bit of time]
2020 Chateau Valandraud
black purple red color- probably the deepest color of any wine tonight, burnt fruit on the aggressive nose, fresh coffee grinds, licorice, on the palate impenetrable, inky, showing a little herbal and chalk nuance but in no way is this subtle, FWIW many in the room spoke well of this- so my read on this was far from popular consensus.
[**+?, 2040+ this will need a long time to achieve its ends]
2020 Domaine de Chevalier blanc
bright pale yellow color, fine nose of melon, pear and honeysuckle, young grass, on the palate light and genteel but with very good depth, fine long fragrant finish, young days and showing well- but surely there is a good deal more to come with age.
[****, 2030+]
On a final note- the “put your money where your mouth is” question. 2019 was the last vintage for me buying Bordeaux in any quantity. At age 50, and still reveling in my dwindling stocks of 1985-1990 Bordeaux, it does not make sense to lay down new vintages in numbers. That said, I will absolutely be laying down a few bottles of Leoville-Barton and Calon-Segur. After a few days to ponder and reflect on my notes- there may also be room for a little Canon, Ducru and Pichon Lalande.