This was several weeks ago but am still thinking about it…
- 2019 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen (04/07/2026)
Steins Traube, Mainz #1: Cool and ready year; deep yellow; no decanter, takes leaps every 30min; Dalsheim, historic core of Keller; pure limestone rock with traces of loess, marl and clayey loam; limestone significantly less porous and powdery Vs chalk; South-southeast facing, steep, 40y vines; latest ripening of Keller portfolio;
At first pour burst of tropical citrus: on perfumy nose, Moroccan orange, passion fruit, star fruit, dried pineapple chunks, very enticing with some creaminess; body has good acidity and some fine chalk, oriental spice powder on the finish and ripe expansive acids; fruit is so generous and succulent, yet powerful, punctuated by reductive salinity; finish evolves into a creamy limoncello; acids/minerality sparkle on the throat; very sparkly reductive; after an hour this throat finish turns into a highly extended ripe concentrated citric acid, a good five second length, Skittles-like; no disturbing yeast or vanilla and the acids are balanced by the ripeness, so I'd say this is very much a purer Clemens Busch Falkenlay/Raffes GG stylistically, given the relative warmness of the Terrassenmosel; (97 points)
