2019 Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (10/16/2023)
– decanted 30 min. before initial taste –
– tasted non-blind over 1.5 hrs. –
NOSE: earthy/red fruits/savory mix; hint of rubbed leather; little bit grapey; pretty expressive (not tight).
BODY: violet-cranberry color of medium-deep depth; medium-light bodied; conglomerate cork.
TASTE: medium+ acidity; cherries for days! – sweet cherry, cherry Icee; some medium-fine, drying tannins; savory on the finish, and a touch grapey, but mostly cherries; not overtly oaky; 13.5% alc. not noticeable; hint of baked raspberries. Both Ash and I liked this a lot. Although I enjoy Chianti, it seems my Hit rate on them is well below 50% — this one’s a clear winner. Will definitely re-buy. Drink Now and over the medium term.
I was lucky to get a decent auction lot that introduced me properly to Chianti - some Monte Bernardis from the Stak era, Cepparello and Selvapiani Bucerchiale. All 3 impressed, albeit it’s the Bucerchiale I keep returning to. I think a local merchant still has some 1999s and 2000s from Monte Bernardi, but I suspect 20+ years might be pushing the edge of the ageing window.
What’s the “Stak era” with Bernardi, and how do their current wines differ from the wines of the Stak era (if at all)?
What is it that you like about he Cepparello and Selvapiani wines? Are there particular bottlings of theirs that you have in mind when you mention them?
Hi Brian
Stak Aivaliotis was the original owner, with ambitious aspirations and seemingly not shy about expressing them. A split from his partner eventually led to a sale of the property to (IIRC) the current owners. I don’t think there was any great quality shift.
I mentioned the other wines, more of an ‘aside’. Landing onto Monte Bernardi on it’s own would have been a lovely entry into the region, but the three together, and with mature bottles was wonderful luck. What are the others like? I’ve not had a (Isole e Olena) Cepparello for a while, but it’s a classy pure sangiovese that was one pushing the authorities to allow 100% Sangiovese (when the DOCG required other grapes including white grapes to be included). I’m not sure if it ever reverted to Chianti, even when the regs were relaxed. Selvapiana definitely flirts with the funky side of 100% sangiovese, and that suits my tastes (it’s a Chianti Rufina) and the owner seems quite the character. I think it’s super value and lovely at 10-12 years old.
Cepparello is Isole e Olena, 100% Sangiovese. I’m not sure it’s really a Super Tuscan I forget if this refers to international varieties like Cabernet or if it’s just a “top” wine classified as IGT. Though I’ve reached the DK, DC phase. Isole e Olena also makes a nice Syrah and Chianti. Paolo de Marchi sold the estate, but I believe Paolo has stayed on as winemaker. De Marchi’s were Piemonte winemakers who revived the estate.
Maybe @Tim_Heaton has more insight into the current state of affairs. I’d like to hear Ian’s thoughts.
Yes, there was that odd situation of a 100% Sangiovese wine sat alongside the supertuscans in the classification for rebels, with no-one ever sure if it was right to call it a ‘supertuscan’. Did others make 100% Sangiovese wines and just fudge the books to stay within Chianti classification? I expect so.
I’ve not tasted the Collezione di Marchi Cab Sav or Chardonnay, but I love their Syrah, which for me tastes like it’s from Italy, rather than imitating France (or Australia)
I hadn’t realised the estate had been sold, and wouldn’t know if this has brought stylistic changes - hopefully not if Paulo di Marchi is still directing production.
Nice. I just tried this recently too. I am also a fan. For me, the nose was beautiful and the palate a bit less expressive, which given the balance and obvious quality of the wine, probably just means it will benefit from some age. My plan is to get to my other 2 bottles in the 10-12 year (from vintage) range… This will probably become a regular buy for me, particularly in good vintages.