TN: 2019 Fabio Gea DNAss

A super-weird wine. It’s made from an undisclosed blend of grapes (Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, maybe others) from Barbaresco, organically grown, vinified and aged in sandstone amphorae submerged in a pool of water. Gea himself describes the vinification as “water and wine making love” (I’ve also seen it as “water and wine f*cking”- I don’t know enough Italian to determine which translation is more accurate). Bottled in leftover Travaglini bottles with hand-made and hand-applied labels. Unfiltered, unfined, minimal sulfur; the stuff that wine-geek dreams are made of.

Very pale in color, translucent, watery appearing, reddish brown in hue. Very fruity on the nose; red raspberries and red cherries, fresh cranberries, and lingonberry soda from Ikea. Is this wine or fruit juice? Funny that it smells so fruity, because the palate leads with flavors of leather, earth, soy sauce. It has the prickle of remaining CO2, the nose of a young wine, but the flavor profile of a real geezer. Only after the tertiary flavors resolve, some red fruit flavor emerge, but they remain in the background. Acidity is high, the tannins are barely perceptible. Smells like fruit juice but tastes like it’s already over the hill. What an odd disjointed nose/palate experience. I handled the bottle super carefully, but there is a fine silty sediment that contaminates nearly half the bottle. What a bummer.

I appreciate the out-of-the-box thinking here, but I’m not a fan of the end result. I really enjoyed his Cul Otte bottling, which is another weirdo one-off, but I just don’t find this one very enjoyable.

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Appreciate the note. I’ve got a bottle of this and have been looking forward to trying his wines. Reading this and other CT notes makes me wonder if I should start with one of his other bottlings…

pretty similar to my experience with Back Grin. just a struggle to get through. had a much better response to the barbaresco “notu.” but not good enough to steer me back to Gea wines anytime soon

I had a very similar experience drinking the 2018 version of this wine. Weird wine for sure. I struggle to see the appeal

I only tried the 2017 Onde Gravitazionali from Fabio Gea about a year ago and it was pretty much correct and enjoyable, perhaps my only criticism would be that it felt a little bit anonymous like many of the natural wines do. I still have a bottle left that I’m saving just to test its ability to age. Worth the $60 price tag? I don’t think so, perhaps the wine is $35 and the extra $25 is for the hype :wink:

Agreed. There is a lot of hype here. Though I am interested in the Barbaresco, which I have sitting in the cellar. Anyone have a thought about how long it should sit for before popping?

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