TN: 2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne (France, Burgundy, Bourgogne)

WINE TALK
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  • 2019 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (3/17/2022)
    I served this double blind to the usual group. Not one suggested pinot noir on their first guess. I heard Hermitage, syrah, New World bandied about a fair bit. When I said that this was pinot noir, there was an interjection of “Kosta Brown?” There is an incredible amount of oak on a wine of this lowly appellation, and while there is lots of sweet fruit here, this wine is not holding its oak well at all at least right at the get-go. I am inclined to agree that this is perhaps not scaled correctly for what it should be. I left a glass in the bottle to see how it would evolve the next day.

Far better this second night. This is still incredibly oaky and rich, but overall much better integrated than the first night. It’s really not made in a style I would consider idiomatic for straight-up Bourgogne AC, in that this is far larger in scale. But this has become far closer to what I remember the 2018 to be when I tasted it from barrel just before the advent of the covid pandemic. More of the classic Mugneret-Gibourg silkiness has emerged and so much of the sweet fruit has persisted. A vintage to tuck away – I see absolutely little upside to opening any more of my meagre stash now, but I am glad I opened this one.

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I basically think of MG Bourgogne as a Vosne village anyway. I seem to remember them opening their cellar door and saying the grapes just outside were their bourgogne. I could be misremembering. Regardless, it is generally an exceptional Bourgogne.

Anyway, if you thought of it as Vosne village, would the scale have worked better for you?

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I actually had the two side by side from bottle at a Beaune restaurant at the end of last year, and the 2019 is quite a bit more polished structurally. As with many 2018s, one feels the tannins a bit more on the finish now than one did in barrel. In terms of maturity and fruit expression, they are not so far apart, with the 19 a bit more floral and fragrant and the 18 a touch richer aromatically.

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Les Lutenières, the parcel that the Bourgogne comes from, is not outside the winery doors. That is la Colombière and Pré de la Folie, both villages level parcels.
Les Lutenières is on the other side of the RN, across the street from the Arnoux Lachaux winery at the southern limit of Vosne. Fwiw.

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Just had this last night with this note in mind. Very rich but I enjoyed it. Lots of pleasure since normally I don’t find Bourgogne wines to be that giving.

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Didn’t some colombiere go into the Bourgogne before it was separated out to make a cuvee? Or was it going to vigot before?

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IIRC, some was going to Vigot, and some was going into the M-G Vosne.

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Interesting. I don’t think I’ve ever had their Bourgogne Rouge but have found the young VRs to be extremely rich (and lovely). I do have a couple of bottles of the '14 BR, probably time to open one [cheers.gif] .

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Will be very interested in your thoughts.