Well this was exactly as advertised, also here on this forum. A superlative expression of Loire CF and Saumur-Champigny and perhaps the kind of stuff some people would like to be shhhh about. If you are a fan of the variety and able to source some, go for it. I know I damn sure will be buying more while it’s still affordable.
2019 Château Yvonne Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (17.8.2023)
It’s been in the carafe for a while now and the nose is thoroughly earthy and savory with bright blackcurrant fruit, capsicum, wet leaves and iron. Slightly smoky with herbal nuances. It’s very detailed and refined - nothing dominates or is too prominent - a pure delight for the fans of Cabernet Franc. On the palate it shows some ripeness to the fruit but mostly it’s very correctly proportioned with a classically leafy cassis fruit and some capsicum. I really enjoy the freshness here and there is also admirable structure in the way of tannins that grip towards the finish without being drying. The palate comes off as very minerally and there is even a downright salty sensation in the end. I was expecting a distinct expression of Saumur-Champigny and this delivers effortlessly. Despite no lack of fruit or the typical Cab Franc characteristics this is definitely a finesse wine that wows with its balance, delicacy and weightlessness. While already excellent with extended airing I can see this improving quite a bit in the cellar.
Love this wine. It was a private import while in Canada so I couldn’t get it at the SAQ and had to purchase in 6 packs. You just reminded me that this needs to be a purchase as soon as weather permits!
I stay away from warm vintages for the white. We had a special bottling (I think) for one of our Quebec importer. I think it was younger vines but I’m not sure:
Just checked. That cuvée is higher residual sugar in most years, it does 12 months in oak (80% new) versus 12 months in 3/4 oak (20% new) and 1/4 amphora.
That probably explains why I like the regular cuvée better. So no need to buy the Quebec taxed SAQ only version.
This is an entry-level cuvée that we had with my wife about 3 years ago at a little French wine bistro in Key West, all I can honestly tell about it now is that I know that I liked it and it left a good impression on me, otherwise, I wouldn’t even bother to take a picture. But hey! I have a photographic memory after all
I’m terrible at TNs, and it gets worse once I start drinking. Ironically, that’s when I feel encouraged to write TNs
Rouge: the varietal instantly recognizable. The usual profile of mostly red fruit, some pencil shavings, something herbal. I don‘t sense anything green, maybe a minuscule amount of brett. Leaves a bit of a dry mouth feel, solid grip.
Nothing profound here, yet immensely enjoyable. I will be back for more.
Blanc: that‘s a different league. As good a Chenin as I ever (in my limited experience) had. If you believe the retailer’s sales pitch, a single vineyard, with the material from Clos Rougeard planted by the old master himself. Flintstone, spice, stone, exotic fruit, salt. Unreal grip, an (almost) infinite length. Why chase ridiculously overpriced Chardonnay GCs if you can drink this for a fraction of the price.
Love Chenin and love Yvonne but Collier still holds the lead in my heart. The balance of hay, stones and citrus just kills me. That being said, Yvonne is right behind! Thanks for the TNs!
Thanks a lot for sharing! Any idea how the regular white of theirs compares? It doesn’t exactly seem to be entry level either, at least where I am eyeing it right now.
I thought I had a Saumur blanc somewhere, but now I only find a Beaumeray (apparently their top red). I can only repeat what I see online: Le Gory is their top white, sees more wood, and there isn‘t much of it! My source limits it to 1 bottle/client.
Domaine du Collier was started by Antoine Foucault, son of Charly. I think they started it in 2000. The wines are now a lot tougher to find though.
In white, I typically go for their basic Saumur Blanc. It’s easier to find than their Charpentrie cuvée. For the basic, I tend to drink them pretty young (up to 7 or 8 years after their release). The Charpentrie I haven’t had very often but a 2011 still showed pretty primary (but delicious!) in 2021 and could still benefit from aging. I’ve had a couple of oxidized Saumur Blanc after 5 to 7 years which scared me but they both seemed to be exceptions rather than the norm.
