TN: 2017 Maison Alex Gambal Beaune Montagne Saint Desiré

WINE TALK
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Almost weekly I cook tagliatelle and cold smoked salmon in a creamy sauce with thyme and almost always it makes me crave for Chardonnay. This time I went for a village rarely seen at our table and a producer I’ve heard of but have no prior experience with. I’m a big 2017 Burg stan and this bottle does nothing to change that. Great aromatics and body yet freshness too, this has it all. Reduction is en vogue and some wines I think are too reductive and restrained. Here it is in just the right proportion. Apparently this producer has ceased to exist which I find sad given how nice this wine is. I reckon I need to but whatever bottles I can find before it’s all gone.

  • 2017 Maison Alex Gambal Beaune Montagne Saint Desiré - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune (22.2.2024)
    A very expressive and generous nose here with lemon, beeswax, woody tones and smoky popcorny reduction. Smells a bit sticky, if that makes any sense. On the palate it is airy and rich with good volume but also pretty terrific acidity and relative lightness, probably thanks to the modest 12.5% ABV. There is sweetness to the fruit while it tastes dry and quite savory with some tension as well. The use of oak is really nice - it doesn’t try to hide it at all but the balance with the fruit is impeccable. There is slight oiliness to the mouthfeel that I could do without but it doesn’t distract much and with food at all. The missus said that this is borderline too aromatic for her and I understand what she means - this is definitely not the most restrained white Burg out there. I however find both the style and the quality laudable and while very tasty now it surely has at least short term upside. 2017 delivers again!

Posted from CellarTracker

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If Alex has, in fact, hung it up, that is a shame, as I was very impressed by my one visit with him and have enjoyed his whites in particular. Cutting and pasting from that visit, back in 2014. It’s almost amusing, actually, to revisit the economics that Alex talked about 10 years ago. Times have sure changed since then!

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A very loquacious and super guy, Alex handled a group of about 15. Yet another different-faceted visit, I learned more about the business side here than I ever have before. Alex’ candour and his willingness to answer all questions and expand on those answers was much appreciated. And there were the wines

He’s also biodynamic, at least as much as possible. He owns and leases 4 hectares, and is hoping to add about 8 hectares. Where, when he started, there were valuable “crumbs” of top vineyards to snatch, now there are none. Grapes in the Vosne and similar regions are $20 per bottle—and that’s just for the grapes. He sells about 1/3 in France, another 45% to North America, 8% to Japan and the rest elsewhere. About 55,000 to 60,000 bottles normally, he only ran out 40,000 in 2012. He also cites lab analysis as a significant cost component in making wine. He vinifies only in one location and his first vintage was 1996. Alex notes that grape prices have increased 50-60% in the last 18 months.

For himself, he loves Chambolle, wishes he could make more. Puligny. And, of course, St. Aubin

2012 Alex Gambal Bourgogne Blanc

Some from his parcels in Volnay and others from Puligny, but for this difficult vintage, other grapes from neighbouring vineyards were also bought and formed part of the assemblage. All in oak, but only 10% new. Fruity and lilac bouquet, not complicated dans la bouche, but pleasant for sure.

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Thanks for sharing! Interesting commentary indeed about the economics. I won’t hesitate if I see any Gambal wines from good vintages but it seems like there’s not much left in the market.

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Alex just wrote a book about his wine career and I’m about 2/3rds finished. A fantastic read. It’s very direct and certainly not a romanticized version of the winemaker journey, especially as an American in France. Highly recommended. Amazon.com