TN: 2017 Domaine Guiberteau - Saumur Rouge (France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur)

2017 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (7/10/2019)
– popped and poured –
– tasted non-blind over a couple hours on Day 1, and then revisited on Day 6 –

Some garrigue on the Nose, which didn’t have loads of classic Cab. Franc bell pepper; no brett on the Nose, either. Medium-light bodied on the palate, and this is where things got interesting. Simultaneously red-fruited (cherry and raspberry) and savory tasting; high acidity; comes across as carbonic — this really could fill-in admirably for a Beaujolais. Strong garrigué, but no brett; light, fine, tannin; I hate to say it, but “Burgundian” kept popping into my head while drinking this. 12.5% alc. not noticeable; a touch stony; no greenies initially, but a hint of jalapeno on the back end did eventually emerge with air. Very clean, and easy to drink. Held-up great over a few days (simply re-corked and put in the fridge). Idiosyncratic. I will buy again. gut impression score: 89 – 90.

Hi Brian, thank for the note, I have been buying the Guiberteau for a couple of years now and it is nice to see a TN posted. I tried a 2016 Motelles last year and thought it was delicious and as you say very clean and elegant

cheers Brodie

hi Brodie,

Thanks for chiming-in! I believe I have a lone bottle of the '14 Motelles — I’ve not tried any vintage of that bottling. I was probably going to give it at least a couple more years, unless I shouldn’t … ?

Interesting note. I sampled several Guiberteau wines back in March, two were this one, and the 16 Motelles. This regular 17 showed a bit of skunk on the nose, but otherwise there was quite nice darker fruit, fairly strong fine, grippy tannins, and noticeable rocky minerality. But that was just after a few hours of air, not days later. I liked it too.

The 16 Motelles was just a bit lighter, med body, nice med depth, quite rocky minerality, fine grippy tannins, quite nice but needs time.

I’ve never been moved by this Domaine. Nice wine but not distinct or interesting enough to me to justify the price.

I actually don’t have much experience with the reds, but the whites can be outstanding. The few reds I’ve had were fine, quite tasty, but not overly memorable.

Fair enough. Just so we’re clear, this bottle costs about $25. I think it’s a neat alternative to Pinot or Gamay (or a D&R Mourvedre; or any other light-bodied red). Some of the single vineyard bottlings are more expensive, however. To be fair, knowing you’re a huge Baudry fan, and knowing the Baudry pricing, I can easily see why you’d feel this way, even at $25/bottle.

I’m sorry Brian, I should have been clearer, it’s the Les Motelle bottling that I have toyed with, various vintages. They are about $50.

Ah, o.k… Gotcha. Any experience with the Arboises (sp?) bottling?

I think these wines are great. The prices, though, are not so friendly.

Same here. Reds are so-so, but you catch the right white and it can be sublime.

– popped and poured –
– tasted non-blind over 2 – 3 hrs on Day 1; revisited on Day 4 –

NOSE: savory – dried herbs; red-fruited; a bit high-toned; moderately expressive.

BODY: light to medium-light bodied; violet-garnet color of medium depth.

TASTE: drying tannins; pronounced carbonic style; light funk; crushed rocks; 12.5% alc. not noticeable; gut impression score on Day 1: middle-high 80s, perhaps even 90 if you like the carbonic style. Day 4: funk gone; very nice — less carbonic-like; juicy red fruits; not terribly structured, but very good. Day 4 gut impression score: high 80s. I’ll continue buying this wine, as I enjoy its lithe character. It doesn’t have much typical Cabernet Franc pyrazines, and it’s not built for significant ageing, but it’s a wonderful food wine, as it’s not very alcoholic, doesn’t have imposing tannins, and isn’t full bodied with thick fruit. Pairs wonderfully with chicken, pork, mushrooms, and other savory items. Probably too light to pair with heavier meats and/or heavily-spiced fare.

2017 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Rouge - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (12/13/2021)
– popped and poured –
– tasted non-blind over approx. 2 hrs –

NOSE: prickly/savory/carbonic-esque purple berries with medium-light pyrazine note; deep/dark cherry and plum; boysenberry jam — so this is clearly planted firm in the dark red/purple fruit part of the spectrum; hints of wax beans and garrigué.

BODY: medium-light bodied; garnet-violet color of medium-deep depth.

TASTE: a bit prickly on the front palate; carbonic-esque; “grapey”; garrigué; clean; on the lighter, more elegant, side of Cabernet Franc; labelled at 12.5% alc… Probably best to Drink Now and over the near term.

50, 5, 11, 15, 7 = (88 pts.)

Thanks for the note, Brian I have a few of these but will probably give them a couple of years for the grapey quality to settle down.

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I’ll read your future impressions with interest, Marshall. Cheers!