After drinking only the established classics lately (Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Burgundy in both colors, Saint Joseph) I really felt like it was time for something else last night. I’m a big fan of the Altesse grape from Savoie so decided to go with this new acquaintance I had bought from a very reputable retailer not so long ago. It’s made by a guy called Nicolas Ferrand, who started making wine in 2013. The back label proudly states ”fabriqué en pente”, ie. ”made on slope” and apparently the winery is located right next to the city of Chambéry. In a typical fashion for a young gun in an “obscure” wine region he works in a very non-interventionist way: non-certified organic farming, native yeasts, only old barrels etc. He has just five hectares of vineyards and all wines are sold on allocation.
This wine was aged 50-50 in large foudres and old barriques and obviously there were no wood notes to be found but I do wonder what it is that gives it the yoghurt note. Malolactic fermentation perhaps but then again it is totally different from the typical lactic note often found in Chardonnay. Fortunately it calmed down a lot and after an hour or so did not play a major part in the wine whatsoever. I was really really happy how the wine turned out and will definitely be a buyer once the next vintage comes out. It largely carries the strengths of a high quality Altesse while being still in some way different from my earlier favorites Berlioz and Château de la Mar.
-
2017 Domaine des Côtes Rousses Roussette de Savoie Ensemble - France, Savoie, Roussette de Savoie (26.4.2019)
Reminiscent of Gilles Berlioz’s Les Friponnes last year the nose here has a distinct note that to me is very much yoghurt-like - however if a bit too much at first it did integrate quite nicely in a short time. Besides that note the nose is classic alpine stuff: very bright and fresh, somewhat restrained aromatically yet not vegetal at all. On the palate it has quite a rich mouthfeel and a lot of oomph to it, especially considering the 12% ABV. The acidity is downright fantastic, providing a great lift, energy and freshness. There is plenty of crisp fruit and some more developed tones that indicate some sur lie ageing having taken place. I love the tangy edge here, this drinks extremely well on its own and is simply a very attractive wine.
Posted from CellarTracker