Pretty sure I’ve never had this level of selfish trepidation over simply posting a TN. I may hereafter forever hold my peace about this wine. First sip was a “HFS!” experience.
NOSE: red-fruited — ripe; medium-light to medium pyrazine note; somewhat reserved right now.
BODY: medium-light to medium bodied.
TASTE: dark red fruits; juicy; light pyrazine; strong mineral note; little bit of Sweet Tarts; not tannic; medium-light or light oak note a couple hours after initial taste. This wine oozes class. Possibly the best Cab Franc I’ve had. Unbelievable. Drink Now or Hold.
Now this is what I wanted to read after a couple of notes implying mousiness in the wine. Thanks! The lower level wines I’ve had from this producer have felt quite structured and ageworthy - I reckon this must surely be a long distance runner just the same?
Has anyone tried any of the other offerings? Grand Mont is about half the price and Les Vingt Lieux Dits (which I don’t think is a single vinyard) is less than $20. Is this worth the premium?
I’ve posted here about Vingt Lieux Dits (20 vineyards) and Marsaules, both very good wines in a great style and indeed superb value. I’ve of course yet to taste Grand Mont and Clos Nouveau so can’t comment on the relative values.
Likely some bottle variation going on; zero mousiness in my bottle — had there been some, then, yeah, 85 points is probably the best it would have gotten from me, too, as I mark down significantly for it.
Totally correct on the issue of bottle variation, and I’m not surprised to hear of reports of mousiness. The wines can be brilliant, but there is a focus on minimal intervention and the results can be variable, reflecting that. I have had great wines from the Gauthiers, at all levels, but also funky and mousy versions.
Clos Nouveau is an amazing vineyard. I found early vintages to be rather heavy-handed when it came to oak, displaying obvious oak-derived flavours and the tannic structure had the coarse suggestion of oak rather than fruit tannins. Even so, the wines obviously had cellaring potential. That was some time ago though, and I haven’t tasted a Clos Nouveau more recent than the 2015 vintage (which was better).
The prices have always been strong. Even 6-7 years ago I recall seeing the Clos Nouveau for sale in a hypermarket near Chinon for €50-60. When I told Pierre Gauthier he was furious - not because of the price, but because he doesn’t want his wine sold in supermarkets.
Actually, to be fair to Rebecca Gibb, Clos Nouveau’s price rose before she started writing for Vinous.
I was offered (and bought) a couple of 2014s at 45€ by one of my Loire suppliers back in 2018. The auction market in France started bubbling a few months later. I was able to buy some 2015 and 2016 for a bit more than the 2014, and shortly after the price rocketed at auction, to where it is now, at between 100 and 120€ depending on the vintage.
The hype is not critic-driven at all, it’s just people looking for another Rougeard, I think. I don’t know if it’s worth the hype or not since I haven’t tried any.
I’ve tried Les Marsaules, which I liked (the 09) and Grand Mont, which I found a bit facile (also the 09) so my jury’s still out.
It would be nice if he were also furious about so many of his (expensive) bottles being flawed, or does he harbor some kind of condescending contempt for his customers? (sorry, I’m a bit mousy-miffed about it right now, as a result of a recent spate of so-afflicted bottles). Does he even care about this issue?
Fair point! It is one that could be directed at a large body of Loire vignerons (and other regions too I guess) including some more famous names. No need for “mousy-miffed” (like this, might steal it) apologies.
