2014 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (2/18/2021)
Next to the Cayuse [2018 En Chamberlin], the restraint here is evident, but while the fruit isn’t anywhere as exuberant as the Cayuse, there is just as much material here, diversified between the fruit, bacon fat, and olive elements. A little reduced. This doesn’t quite have the same intensity and weight as the brilliant 2015 or 2016, and in fact has a coolness that reminds me a bit of the enchanting 2004. Minerally and bright, with fruit that sits more on the red side of the spectrum. While this is too young to hit a peak like the 2004, I feel optimistic this will evolve into something like that. Chave is truly the King of the Hill. (93 pts.)
Nice note. The vintage 2014 in the Northern Rhone is lost a little amidst the apparently excellent vintages 2013, 2015, and 2016, but I have found the quality to be pretty high in general. I’m not surprised Chave pulled it off - and if the 2014 ends up like 2004…
Even the lowly 2002 vintage of Chave is worth seeking out (though it’s been 6 years since I had it). Not only exceeds the vintage, but is an excellent wine in its own right.
It’s still really good. Chave must be one of the very best wines to buy in all vintages. I love the 1987, 1992 and 2002, all pretty much throw-away vintages otherwise.