I guess the quarantine is not all bad as it allowed me to make my first boeuf bourguignon ever yesterday. I used the Julia Child recipe and it turned out really awesome. I don’t have a lot of red Burgundy so the options for the drink were not plentiful. I first visited Dubreuil-Fontaine in 2013 and tasted the then current vintage 2011 without expectations. There were quite many bottlings to taste then and due to the winemaker’s light touch it was very easy even for a novice to to assess and appreciate the differences in style and quality. The prices were by today’s standards ridiculously low as even the Grand Crus were 50 € or less. I bought a mixed case and all that remains from that case now is the Corton-Bressandes but I’ve been happy with each and every bottle I’ve opened.
I’ve considered whites to be Dubreuil-Fontaine’s strongest suit but I find this bottling particularly convincing, especially so coming from a vintage with not the greatest reputation. The price tag of 25 € feels a bit funny but I would think that even with all the price hikes ever since it might still be a good value if the quality has stayed at this level.
2011 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses- France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru (1.4.2020)
Popped and poured, enjoyed over three hours. The nose offers remarkably attractive bright red cherry fruit that is of the more savory kind yet with nice ripeness to it. There are also pleasant spicy notes, just a hint of undergrowth and very well judged oak. On the palate it is surprisingly dense and mouth-filling yet very well proportioned. Dry and savory with solid structure and lifting acidity. Not exactly youthful yet there are still ways to go before it starts to peak. While silky on the entry it firms up notably towards the finish. On the serious side with some grip and good weight. Long, persistent finish. Has a classic and elegant feel to it.
I’m more in the red camp with DF - the ‘Ile’ that you mention, but more often their Epenots is always a great example, Beaune Montrevenots also, if on a slightly lower level. Of their Cortons I’d tend to go for the Perrières and of course, the Clos du Roi.
But their Charlemagne is super after 5 years - I’ve not yet had a bad one - and for daily drinking their Pernand Clos Berthet. It’s a wide range - the best part of 20 wines - but with plenty of high-points.
Interesting, although probably not surprising given your much larger experience with their wines and various vintages. For my palate the Bressandes seemed best suited of the GC reds but I think that is down to its approachability versus the others.
Had a great bottle of 2011 Rollin Ile des Vergelesses. I wouldn’t call it particularly dense but in a perfect spot, balance-wise. We finished the bottle and opened up a 2012 of the same hoping to have a similar experience and couldn’t have been more wrong. Closed down hard and much more concentrated.
I was definitely positively surprised by the textural richness and depth. I think my and your experiences here are good examples of what vintages like 2011 can offer: very good drinkability and enjoyment when wines from the better nearby vintages still require quite a bit of time in the cellar. Sucks to hear about the 2012 though! I have only had one wine from Rollin - a white village Pernand I think - but liked it a lot. Good to hear they are also competent with reds.
Thanks Ilkka for the note! I’m surprised how seldom the wines chez Dubreuil-Fontaine are mentioned, as they offer solid quality for very fair prices. Something rarely seen in Burgundy nowadays. Personally, I prefer their wines from around Pernand-Vergelesses. The Clos Berthet offers a solid quaffer in red and a more decent quality in white. Besides the red île de Vergelesses I also like the Sous Frétille Cru.
I concur with Bill that the Corton Charlemagne requires age. In riper years such as 2012 or 2015 I found them too simple, if not clumsy. Have some left resting in the cellar to see how they develop. On the contrary, I bought half a case of the 1996 right after release which was very hard and restrained for a long time, but then opened up. The last bottle, drank maybe 5-6 years ago was singing. Regarding the Cortons, the Clos du Roi is probably at the top. However, in tastings I find the Bressandes more accessible in its youth. I just buy both.
Bill, we are of like palates among Christine’s lineup, though I am very fond of the Pernand Clos Berthet Blanc. (N.B. We sell many of these wines). I have been enjoying her Pernand 1er Cru whites from vintages 2005-2009.
They are a wonderful and gracious family, who make visits a great pleasure. Recently, we were treated to a blind taste from a dirty, unlabeled bottle. I suspected it was the Pommard Epenots but my guess of mid to late 90’s was undone by the extraordinary freshness of this 1976.
It sounds great-possibly too good for a Boeuf Bourguignon which with its strong and direct flavours seems to me better with a fairly crude passetoutgrains or the like. Historically the higher appellations would have been sold to make money rather than drunk with the highly flavoured local cuisine.
Well, in all honesty it was no 1+1=3 pairing - surely the same result could have been achieved with a lesser wine - but I was a happy camper nevertheless!