2010 Ontanon ‘Gran Reserva’ [Rioja] This is a 13.5% abv blend of 85% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano from the Rioja Baja/Oriental part of the region. This is generally a hotter, less desirable climat that used to be a source of bulk wine but producers are increasingly estate bottling in the area, and making quality wines. The same family has been involved for 5 generations although bottling under their own name is somewhat new. This Gran Reserva comes from a high altitude (800m) single vineyard, La Pasada. I had not heard of this bodega before, and there are a couple other properties with similar sounding names e.g. Ostatu, Otano and so forth. On the nose I get creamy vanilla oak notes, and then basalmic/resiny notes afterwards. It’s medium bodied, with a light ruby color. For my tastes it drinks best on immediate opening. I did not find any sediment in glass/bottle in my example; the cork looks like it has hardly been in contact with the wine at all. Finally, on the back palate I get some rhubarb and red fruit flavors. Tannins are soft, too little to stand up to dinner in fact. Acidity is well balanced. Pricing is in the $30-$40 band (lower in the EU, higher in US) which is rich for a Rioja Oriental that is good, not great. I’d note that all Otanon’s various levels – crianza/reserva/gran – have the same bottle/label with just a slightly different notation on the bottom, so I can see why the one I purchased was a ‘mistake’ price. I’d slot this into the B+ zone, with a caution on value for money, at suggested retail prices.
After I opened the bottle and let a glass breathe, I seared fresh American leg of lamb and whipped up a pot of fluffy polenta to go with this.
