TN: 2010 Jérôme Gradassi Chateauneuf-du-Pape

WINE TALK
1

From a producer I had never heard of, I tasted this wine with a local retailer. His write up in a promotional email is, with allowance for a bit of literary license, pretty much spot on - and quoted below:

This is a great wine. This is the essence of the thing. Version 1.0. I love Chateauneuf-du-Pape and suspect I sell more different estate bottled versions in a year than any other retailer in Atlanta. I research, special order, and expend great effort to find the best. There are well over a hundred different producers and many, many of them are very fine. But this one. Well, it unites every aspect, every known quantity (and some unknown I think), every possibility of Chateauneuf-du-Pape into one magnificently cohesive archetype. It is the essence of the thing.

Knowing my adoration for the wines I was the first given a sample bottle of the Jérôme Gradassi 2010 Chateauneuf-du-Pape for a test run. I poured it into a Burgundy glass (the balloon type you should be using for your Southern Rhone reds) and with no expectations at all, not knowing the producer, was immediately struck by how faithful to everything Chateauneuf this wine was. I tasted for confirmation. All I could say was, “this is SO Chateauneuf!”.

Composed of 80% Grenache with a 20% mix of Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Clairette the 2010 Gradassi Chateauneuf-du-Pape delivers sweet hickory smoke, black cherries, candied violets, black pepper, game, tilled earth, nori, cardamom, lavender, rosemary, and minerals all rendered in the most lush, beautiful texture. This is a heady, complex wine that commands your attention. It may be difficult to have a conversation while drinking it as the range of smells and flavors is so enthralling.

Interestingly, Jérôme Gradassi was the chef and owner of a one star Michelin restaurant in nearby Avignon for 12 years before deciding the rigors of the kitchen were too much and traded in his toque for a pair of blue jeans and became a farmer. He adopted a scant eight acres (making this one of the smallest domaines in Chateauneuf-du-Pape) owned by his grandfather and made his first vintage in 2004. Clearly his skilled and highly trained palate is serving him well in his second career.

And so I bought the seven cases available of this exceptional Chateauneuf-du-Pape. 2010 is another great vintage, the wine is spectacular now and will be over the following decade or two. All styles diverge from this point, this essence of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Shouldn’t you establish THE reference point??

2

Thanks for posting this. Always interested to find traditionally made CdP.

3

http://www.chateauneuf.dk/en/cdpen161.htm

4

And here I thought I was getting a TN from Dr. Fleming.
Would have been a first, I believe.

5

Third. Would have been third. Aintcha been paying attention, son?

[snort.gif]

6

You mean, there’s already two?
Where the hell have I been?
[cheers.gif]

7

Following the recommendation here I found this wine last year in CdP - and bought 3 bottles … forgot about them stacked below all 2010s …

Now I came across it again when sorting my cellar - and opened one for dinner - after slow-o for 3+ hours.

Well - nothing wrong with it … except: this is NOT a great wine; it´s quite typical CdP with strong Grenache component, but quite bright in colour and without any concentration and intensity of a strong year - could have been a 2004. Nice, a good drink - but somewhat harmless and not really long on the palate, aromatics remained also quite simple - nothing here to really be excited … if I´m generous worth some 86-87 points … no need to cellar it - but will certainly hold for a few years, only … what for?

I don´t regret that bottle - but wouldn´t have bought another two … for the price of (just short of) 20 Euro it´s ok … but that´s it.

Anyone better experiences?

8

Yes, much better.

Sorry it didn’t work for you. Though your saying it “could have been a 2004” is praise in my book.

9

+1. And some of those 04s are starting to come around from what I’m hearing.

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With “could have been a 2004” I´ve meant that it had the texture, colour and weight of a lighter year, but certainly not comparing with the top-wines of 2004 … I love a lot of 2004s, from Rayas, Marcoux, Pegau to Bois de Boursan and Mont-Olivet …
My bottle of Gradassi was also totally sound, not compromised by any sort of shipping issue …
Either there are different bottlings - or our palates are VERY different. [scratch.gif]

11

mmm…'04 Rayas…

12

I had to run back through my emails to find this one…and I bought 4 bottles

Hope you’re doing well, Mr. Fleming, and I enjoyed the other recommendation you gave me :slight_smile:

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Jérôme Gradassi Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2017 : 17/20 - 18/11/2021
Une excellente approche, solaire mais gardant beaucoup de classe, comme ce magnifique terroir l’autorise souvent. Impression de rafle comme chez Charvin.

14

Laurent,

I agree that the more recent vintages of Gradassi are a step up from the wines made there in 2010. Thank you for your note.

Adam Lee
Beau Marchais Winery & Clarice Wine Company

15

Thank you.

I had a very plesant visite at the domain two years ago …