2010 Château Lynch-Bages- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (25/03/2022)
Everything Pauillac is as intimidating as Pall Mall’s line up of gentlemen clubs. You’re a member, or you’re not. And if you’re in, it takes a few generations to blend the code of conduct with your DNA and another dynasty to avoid social suicide while navigating inbetween 3 centuries of implicit evidences. And so is Pauillac : rules maker, standard setter, warden of the elegances, old school and eternal… immensely boring, and therefore absolutely desirable.
And here comes Lynch Bages, the only punk in town who does not bother borrowing a tie to sit at the 1855 Ivy League’s table. The Prince Harry of the left bank, Hugh Grant before Divine Brown : so perfectly compliant that his deviances make Parker’s systematic contempt for him look like jealousy. But in 2010, even the Wine Advocate could not help but admitting the dunce’s genius.
With a solid 70% of new oak and 79% of cabernet in the blend, stats don’t call for nuance and subtlety. And the color rather tends to confirm this intuition : lights fails to pass through this deep violine liquide with crimson reflections. It’s superb and promises the exhausting experience of virile wine from the Duero’s valley, until sight gives way to smell. There rises the black swan, in a prodigiously balanced symphonhy of bramble, ripe raspberries, blackcurrant here; fumes of smoke and smells of undergrowth there; and a whole world of fine spices all over the place… and each of these fragrances at the right place. Rarely could the world elegance find a better definition; as for what happens in the mouth, it’s about balance. Same perfect blend of fresh black fruits, yesterday’s fire pit, kampot pepper and exotic swirls of an Indian market. At 11 years of age, its tannins are solid but round edged and backed by a surprising acidity that calls for decades of improvement.
This wine is a first class long haul trip to the most extraordinary of the Left Bank. Indulge yourself a VIP pass to the most exclusive Pauillac experience and start wondering : after such a wine, what ? (95 pts.)
I don’t understand why the OP is framing Lynch-Bages as an outsider that doesn’t get the respect it deserves (or at least until he tasted the 2010). Sure it’s only a 5th growth per the 1855 classification, but it’s gotten lots of props, at least during the past 60 years. Vintages such as the 1985 and 1989 (which I’ve enjoyed), let alone 1961 et al. (which sadly I’ve not tried), have great reputations. It’s also been priced like a 2nd growth for many years.
I also don’t understand your implication that CS and new oak in classified growth Bordeaux aren’t conducive to nuance. Maybe that’s true at 12 years of age, but any high-quality Bordeaux should be quite complex (and often elegant) at maturity. Have you had a negative experience with other well-regarded Pauillacs that you feel are vastly overrated?
Regards,
Peter
Fun note to read, but I too am not sure I agree with the baseline assumptions it builds on. In addition to what’s been mentioned above, Parker loved him some Lynch Bages. I no longer haver access but I am pretty sure the 2000 was a 99 point wine at one point, and there were many such examples
Whopper of an entry to the Club, damn what an entertaining note. Please post more!
And like Neal, I don’t agree with the premise at all. Lynch Bages has made killer wines for decades. I came into the wine scene when 85, 86, 89 and 90 were readily available in the market and were just amazing wines. Still are. LB arguably trailed off a bit after that, 95 not so great, but 2000 and 2005 are quite fine. Have not popped my 2010; don’t have the cajones to pop a 2010 Pauillac this young!
Honestly, while I appreciate the effort, I don’t understand most of what you’re saying.
With a solid 70% of new oak and 79% of cabernet in the blend, stats don’t call for nuance and subtlety. Why not?
But in 2010, even the Wine Advocate could not help but admitting the dunce’s genius Huh? What are you trying to say here?
FWIW, Lynch Bages has been on top of their game since 1982. 82, 85, 89, 90, 95, 96, 00, 05, 09, 10, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21 are all very good or even great wines. IMO, Starting with 2009, they have been on a roll making some of the best wines in the history of the estate.
Thank you for your comments and the very valid questions you’ve raised. Wine tasting being a blend of a little technical education and a massive amount of subjectivity, my review of Lynch Bages 2010 and my answers below must be taken as such : personal and without any other ambition than to rationalize an impression.
About Parker, Lynch Bages’average rating over 2000-2010 reaches 94,27 points (Lowest : 2002/89 pts., highest : 2009 and 2010 : 98 pts.) which shows the Wine Advocate’s very positive appreciation of JM Caze’s work over a decade, no debate. However, there’s been regular taint of reserve in WA’s tasting notes over the 2000 decade that I’ve never been able to reconciliate with my personal experience with those vintages.
About oak and CS leading to an “absence” of nuance, I was born and raised in a Burgundy estate where Pinot Noir leads the way and a moderate share of new oak is the rule. From that starting point, CS produces more way structured and virile wines than the grape variety on which my wine education is based.
Thank you for having taken time to comment on my post and raised two valid points that I’ve addressed in my previous reply to P L owet. And I tend to agree with your your assessment of vintages after 2009 : they seem to set a new threshold in Lynch Bages history.
