TN: 2009 Pinot on the River Grand Tasting (112 wines tasted)

WINE TALK
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2009 PINOT ON THE RIVER GRAND TASTING (112 WINES TASTED) - Rodney Strong Vineyard, Healdsburg, California (10/25/2009)


This was a lovely setting for a Pinot fest. Unfortunately as the temperature crept into the mid-80s (and the sun beat down on some of the producers whose tents didn’t quite cover them), conditions were not ideal for tasting these wines at their best. Some producers were prepared with ice buckets, which helped, but sometimes the wines coming right out of the ice were too cold to show their stuff. Nonetheless, it was a fun day, with a great many producers–over 110–on hand. And the crowd reportedly numbered over 1,000.

This was my first chance to taste a number of '08s, as well as to sample (and re-sample, in a lot of cases) the structured and powerful '07 vintage. 2008, from what I sampled, appears to be a lighter bodied vintage than '07, and even ‘06, and one that will be approachable earlier and good for showing the wines’ terroirs. I tried to get to as many producers that were new to me as possible, and got to 51 in all, unfortunately having to pass up many that I normally enjoy to get to the new ones. My top wines from the tasting, with 92+ points or more, were mostly from producers that I know and regularly like–August West, Baton, Chasseur, Fort Ross, Littorai, Merry Edwards, Peay, Roar and Sojourn–and from one that was brand new to me: La Rochelle. The best of the other producers that were new to me in this tasting were Chronicle (with Littorai’s Ted Lemon as their winemaker) and Pillow Rd.

One thing that puzzled me and began to be disturbing at this tasting was a relatively high number of bretty wines–12 of the ones I tasted, or more than 10%. In most cases, I got confirmation from another experienced taster of what I was picking up as brett, and there was simply more of it than I typically get in a large tasting of domestic wines. I don’t mind brett at fairly low levels, where it sometimes adds to the complexity, but with some of the wines in this tasting, the brett was starting to obscure the rest of the flavor profile. I don’t know to what to attribute this phenomenon, e.g., whether the higher temperatures as the day went on were making the brett even more noticeable, perhaps, but I’ll be interested to see if this continues to be apparent at other upcoming domestic Pinot tastings.
Alta Maria

  • 2007 Alta Maria Pinot Noir - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
    Big red fruit nose with green notes; red fruit palate with green notes; medium finish (87 pts.)
  • 2007 Alta Maria Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
    Herbal, green peppercorn nose; herbal, green peppercorn palate; medium finish (50% whole cluster) (86 pts.)

August West

Baton

Bjornstad

C. Donatiello

Cambria

  • 2007 Cambria Pinot Noir Julia’s Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
    Poised, tart cherry nose; delicate, tart cherry, mineral palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Cambria Pinot Noir Bench Break - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
    Tight, light strawberry nose; delicate, light strawberry, mineral palate with grip; medium-plus finish (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Cambria Pinot Noir Clone 23 - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
    From magnum - tart red fruit nose with a touch of brett; brett, cinnamon, red fruit palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2006 Cambria Pinot Noir Clone 2A - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
    From magnum - red fruit nose; soft red fruit palate, okay but low in acidity and simple; medium finish (87 pts.)

Chasseur

  • 2007 Chasseur Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Big baked cherry, black cherry nose; tart cherry, baked cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Chasseur Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Cherry, baked cherry, vanilla nose; cola, black cherry, berry palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Chasseur Pinot Noir Umino Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Cherry, baked cherry nose; tasty, tart cherry, baked cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)

Chronicle

  • 2007 Chronicle Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Tart red fruit, apple, baking spice nose; tart red fruit, strawberry, apple palate; medium finish (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Chronicle Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Nice tart red fruit, mineral, smoke nose; tight but pretty, ripe cherry, floral, raspberry palate; medium-plus finish (Wadenswil and Pommard clones) (91 pts.)

Claypool

Clouds Rest

  • 2004 Clouds Rest Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Floral, candied berry, cherry nose; tasty, tart cherry, raspberry palate with depth; medium-plus finish (18-24 mos. in oak) (89 pts.)
  • 2005 Clouds Rest Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Berry, herbal, oregano nose; herbal, oregano, oak palate with green notes; medium-plus finish (18-24 mos. in oak) (88 pts.)

Couloir

  • 2007 Couloir Wines Pinot Noir Romas - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Spicy, tart red fruit, cherry nose; tart cherry, strawberry, mineral palate; medium finish (1/2 whole cluster) (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Couloir Wines Pinot Noir Monument Tree - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Spicy red fruit nose; light-medium bodied, tart spicy, red fruit, mineral palate; medium finish (777, 667 and 115 clones, 1/3 each) (91 pts.)

CRU

  • 2007 CRU Pinot Noir Vineyard Montage - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County
    Whole cluster, green, green peppercorn nose; green, green peppercorn palate; medium finish (87 pts.)
  • 2007 CRU Pinot Noir Vigna Monte Nero - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
    Big, spicy, red fruit, green peppercorn, pepper nose; tart red fruit, pepper, green peppercorn palate; medium finish 87+ pts. (87 pts.)

Cuvaison

  • 2006 Cuvaison Pinot Noir Carneros - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
    Tart cherry, brett, vanilla nose; big cherry, spice, vanilla palate; medium finish (88 pts.)

Davis Bynum

  • 2007 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Nice black cherry, baked cherry nose; berry, black cherry palate; medium finish (87 pts.)

De La Montanya

Demuth

Derbès

  • 2006 Derbès Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Tart strawberry, mineral nose; tasty, balanced, tart strawberry, mineral palate; medium finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)

Gary Farrell

Fort Ross

George Wine Company

Gracianna

  • 2007 Gracianna Pinot Noir Bacigalupi - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Cinnamon, cherry nose; ripe cherry, cinnamon palate; medium finish (115 clone on 101/14 rootstock) (88 pts.)

Hirsch

Joelle

Keefer Ranch

Kosta Browne

Ladd Cellars

  • 2007 Ladd Cellars Pinot Noir Cuvée Abigail - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Light medium red color with clear meniscus; nice strawberry, incense nose; baked strawberry, oak, tart red fruit palate with good acidity; medium finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Ladd Cellars Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Medium red color with pale meniscus; earthy, baked strawberry, mineral, toast nose; tart raspberry, red fruit, mineral palate with well-integrated oak; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Ladd Cellars Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Medium red color with pale meniscus; strawberry, baked strawberry, vanilla nose; tasty, tart strawberry, red fruit, cherry palate with good balance and acidity; medium finish (92 pts.)

Landmark

Littorai

  • 2007 Littorai Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Lovely big tart lemon and mineral palate, reminiscent of Chablis from a ripe year; tight, tart lemon, citrus, mineral palate with poise; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Littorai Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Tart cherry, red fruit nose; cherry, cola, black cherry palate; medium-plus finish (90 pts.)
  • 2008 Littorai Pinot Noir Les Larmes - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Nice tart cherry, baked cherry, incense nose; tart cherry, cranberry, mineral palate with good balance; medium finish (89 pts.)
  • 2007 Littorai Pinot Noir Savoy Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Lovely round cherry, allspice nose; round cherry, baked cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 91+ pts. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Littorai Pinot Noir Mays Canyon - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Nice tart cherry, baked cherry nose; tight, tart cherry, balanced palate; medium finish (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Littorai Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    Spicy Anderson Valley cherry, red fruit, baked cherry nose; tasty, tart, spicy cherry, rosehips palate; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Littorai Pinot Noir The Haven - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Lovely strawberry, baked cherry, rhubarb nose; silky, sexy, strawberry, baked strawberry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.)

MacPhail

MacRostie

Mahoney

Merry Edwards

native9

Orsi Papale

  • 2007 Orsi Papale Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Black cherry, berry nose; cola, black cherry, chocolate, berry palate; medium finish (667, 115 and Pommard clones) (89 pts.)

Peay

  • 2007 Cep Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Red fruit, sandalwood nose; tart cherry, sandalwood palate; medium finish (88 pts.)
  • 2007 Peay Vineyards Pinot Noir Scallop Shelf - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Floral, tart cherry, brett, mineral nose; tart cherry, mineral, brett palate; medium finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2007 Peay Vineyards Syrah La Bruma - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Nice pepper, black fruit, green peppercorn nose; tight, green peppercorn, pepper, black fruit palate; medium-plus finish 93+ pts. (93 pts.)

Perception

  • 2007 Perception Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Red fruit, cherry nose; big, cherry, vanilla oak nose; cherry, spice, cinnamon palate; medium finish (89 pts.)
  • 2007 Perception Pinot Noir Orsi - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Cherry, mineral nose; cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish (clone 114) (90 pts.)

Pfendler

  • 2007 Pfendler Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Cherry, allspice, oak nose; allspice, cherry palate; medium-plus finish (50% new French oak) (89 pts.)

Pillow Rd.

  • 2007 Pillow Rd. Vineyard Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Ripe cherry, floral nose; ripe cherry, cinnamon palate; medium-plus finish (Pommard, 114, 115, 777 clones) (91 pts.)

Roar

  • 2008 Roar Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
    Cherry pie, mineral, spice nose; nice cherry, mineral palate with complexity; medium-plus finish 92+ pts. (March 2010 release) (92 pts.)

La Rochelle

Rodney Strong

Roessler

Sea Smoke

  • 2007 Sea Smoke Pinot Noir Southing - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Rita Hills - Sta. Rita Hills
    Medium dark cherry red color with pale meniscus; rich cherry, baked cherry, vanilla, caramel nose; tight tart cherry, tart red fruit, mineral palate with good acidity; medium-plus finish (92 pts.)

Signaterra / Benziger Family

Sojourn

Sonoma-Cutrer

Terlato

  • 2007 Terlato Vineyards Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Red fruit, herbal, oak nose; ripe red fruit, herbal, oak palate; medium finish 89+ pts. (89 pts.)

Testarossa

Three Sticks

TR Elliott

  • 2006 TR Elliott Pinot Noir Queste - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Nice spicy cherry nose; tasty, tart cherry, mineral palate; medium-plus finish 90+ pts. (90 pts.)
  • 2006 TR Elliott Pinot Noir Burgonet - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Red fruit, brett, cherry pie nose; tart red fruit, brett palate; medium finish (89 pts.)

Vergari

  • 2007 Vergari Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Vanilla oak, spicy red fruit nose; ripe red fruit, vanilla palate; medium finish (87 pts.)
  • 2006 Vergari Pinot Noir - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Marin County
    Floral, minerally, red fruit nose; tight, tart red fruit palate; medium finish (86 pts.)


Posted from CellarTracker

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believe it or not i chose McAfee Coliseum over this tasting Sunday. figured the temps crept up a ways! thx for the review.

3

Substantial and informative, Richard. Always a treat. Looks like a very strong lineup of wines. What a treat. Thanks. Wish I could have been there.

4

Thanks Richard.

So no 98-point wowser. Just nice low-nineties scores by the usual suspects.

5

Thanks for all the notes…always a pleasure to read them!

6

Very much appreciate the great notes, Richard. Thanks for sharing, as always.

7

That’s true David. And nothing that tasted “just like 1990 Romanee Conti” either, although Brewer Clifton was not in attendance. :wink:

Your comment, though, got me wondering what Pinots I’ve ever given a score of 98 pts. and above to. Thanks to CellarTracker, at least for the wines I’ve entered there so far (12,100 and counting), there are exactly 6 such wines, and they’re all Burgundies. (David, I know that will be a shock to you. :wink: ) Three of them are DRCs. Here are the 6:

Posted from CellarTracker