2009 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (3/21/2022)
I cannot fathom the positive notes on this wine. I poured a glass to check the condition of the (perfectly stored since release) bottle, and it was a vanilla milkshake made with black cherry ice cream. The gloss and oak overpowered everything about the wine. Two hours later there was no change. What a shame that someone would do this to what was once a benchmark wine. (76 pts.)
Jaboulet CH Thalabert used to be brilliant wine, and for years, punched far about its weight class. Haven’t tried any vintages since Jaboulet changed hands, sounds like I shouldn’t have any regrets.
Coincidentally, my group had a Northern Rhone tasting last night and one of the stars included the 1990 of this wine. I was shocked how young and fresh it was. Pretty textbook Rhone syrah. Not the WOTN, but it held up well to stiff competition costing multiples.
I thought the '10 and '16 were good enough to buy some. It seemed that this was back on form. I wasn’t crazy about the '15, which was very ripe and a bit hot, as I recall. I’ve never had the '09.
Sounds gross. Yet Envoyer said it’s “The Best Vintage of All Time For This Great Northern Rhone Cuvee.” Marketing crap like this drives me nuts…have they tasted every vintage?
In general, 2015 was spectacular for the area. While I clearly haven’t drunk much outside +/- 2 years to 2015, I drank a crap ton of 2015 Rhone wines, including several cases of Alain Graillot Crozes and it was fantastic, even moreso considering it was ~27 euros at my neighborhood shop. I was nowhere near as excited about 2013 and 2014, which were still shelf-stragglers when the 2015 came out.
Nothing against the vintage, Drew, but it sounds like the winemaking style is what people are objecting to. Although I haven’t had the '15 of either, Graillot is definitely a more restrained, pure style than Jaboulet.
The real question is how badly is Duke going to lose to Texas Tech .
The 1990 is brilliant as was last night’s. And I got a bunch of the 2003 in hope that it might simulate the same ripe vintage magic of the 1990. It has never been quite as ethereal, but it has always been delicious! Here is a time sequence smattering of notes:
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (3/20/2022) ESTG Northern Rhône: I so distinctly remember when Susan brought this wine to a tasting in 2003, and I absolutely flipped over it. Well here we are 19 years later, and this is still drinking insanely well. Mmmm, cracked pepper, smoked meat, deeeep, heavy bass notes, earthy, yet soaring, smoky, mushroom and sous bois, this is just so, so good! (95 pts.)
2003 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (12/26/2021)
It is really nuts how good this humble $27.99 wine is. I bought a case back in 2006 after being inspired by the 1990 (and hoping for success with the crazily hot 2003 vintage). And while most 2003 Northern Rhones have been quite disappointing, this wine has been great from the start with every bottle being enjoyable. And the more it ages, the more delicious it gets, just textbook Syrah! The fruit is tart and cherry focused but with the most wonderful overlay of smoked meat and deep, Umami components. It is what I love about the Northern Rhone, the bloody, meat and yet still vibrant aspect of Syrah. So fresh, yet secondary, complex and mature.
The irony is that Jaboulet was not necessarily on a good period at this time, but the wine transcends that. That said, all indications are that this estate is producing really successful wines now over the past handful of years. I need to reload! (92 pts.)
2003 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (8/7/2020)
This is drinking beautifully, delicate, smoky, earthy, with wonderfully vibrant acidity and red fruit. It doesn’t have the unreal depth of the 1990 Thalabert, but it is a really beautiful expression of Northern Rhone Syrah. (92 pts.)
2003 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (10/6/2006)
Simply lovely. Lots of lovely, funky bramble, and cherry. This has a lot of twangy, almost crunchy fruit and a bit of a Pinot Noir personality. Behind the cherry though definitely lurks a little smoke and meat, just hinting at what is to come. The palate is bright, acidic and loaded with nice minerality. This is not a heavyweight, but it is a lovely, clean and pure expression of Crozes in a ripe vintage. This will be really pretty and fun to watch over the next decade, and it is already a pleasure to drink. (91 pts.)
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (5/11/2006) Dinner at Waterfront with Alan Rath (Seattle, WA): Well what a lovely example of Northern Rhône Syrah. We popped and poured, and this was oozing bacon and tar from the moment it hit the glass. The palate was well resolved and clearly thinning out, yet it has gorgeous balance and a nice bit of beef blood going on. It was a little less ripe and full than I might have expected, but the wine was a joy to drink. (92 pts.)
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (8/9/2003) Seattle Tasting Group does Northern Rhône (Bellevue, WA, USA): This was my personal wine of the night. The nose was simply unreal with truffle, bacon fat, and a medicinal, earthy, mushroomy edge. It frankly defies my feeble attempts to describe. This is incredibly resolved with a meaty, beef-blood thing going on. The finish started tight but quickly lengthened out and was long, luscious and showed remarkable balance. Thank you Sue for bringing another stunning 1990 wine! Group average was 94.125 making this the wine of the night. (96 pts.)
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How things change; I even stock up on Keller now when I see it.