The Cotarella family has a reputation for a rather modern style and I try my best to avoid buying such wines - even a bit of Syrah in a Chianti is a major red flag for me. That said way back in 2012, in the golden age of wine blogging, I had a blog and another blogger recommended this wine to me in the comment section of one of my posts. I bit and have had this bottle in my cellar ever since. I’ve been curious about it but there has been nothing to encourage me to pop the bottle. Today I decided to give it a try, having a 2004 Brunello ready as a potential replacement should this one not be to my taste. As it happens I find myself to enjoy it a lot. While a 100% Merlot it comes off as thoroughly Italian and blind I would very likely go to Tuscany. A damn tasty tipple, very well done.
2009 Falesco Lazio Montiano - Italy, Latium, Lazio (16.8.2025)
A fairly bold and smoky nose with rich, deep plum and cherry driven fruit approaching tertiary stage. Markedly spicy with leathery, earthy and herbal tones - very Tuscan and very attractive. On the palate it is leaning full-bodied but not huge by any means. There is some warmth but overall comes off as well balanced with acidic lift and a clean finish. It is dry akin to a Chianti but despite the years under its belt it is nothing drying about it. There’s a good deal of tannic grip that only seems to be strengthening. I’m very positively surprised by the freshness and balance of this wine, the drinkability is actually very good for a 14.5% ”bruiser” from a producer with a reputation to make very modern wines. Overall a nice wine that has undoubtedly benefited from the years sideways.
It’s one of the hardest things to judge as a wine collector: which wines that seem more ripe / oaky / modern in their youth are going to evolve into good balance with age.
Some do, some just go downhill, some stay pretty similar. It’s difficult to predict.
I do think Italy, and the wines having generally high acid, is one factor that improves your odds (but of course is no guarantee) of positive aging.
IME Riccardo Cotarella might be unfairly lumped in with other modernist flying winemakers. I remember I enjoyed this back in the day, and love the ‘only lightly polished’ rustic wines made by the amazing social project that is San Patrignano.
Yes, a little less oak and polish would be great, but what I’ve tried doesn’t appear to have suffered from a heavy hand.
Interesting comment - I actually don’t think I have tasted that many wines made or influenced by Cotarella myself. Are the San Patrignano wines the ones were they employed prisoners or something at the winery/vineyards? I have a very vague recollection of reading about such an operation.
Not prisoners, but rather drug users who want a path out of that destructive habit. They see the route out as not just providing a community environment **free of drugs, but more importantly of giving the opportunity to learn real skills that can give people a chance in the outside world. Those skills extend to genuine artisanal aspirations, not just basic skills that leaves them still vulnerable. I recall a very interesting interview with one of their cheesemakers. He loved the job, joyous in the work providing a deep outlet for his obsessive behaviour, turning what had been a troublesome part of his personality into a huge strength.
The project refuses any state support, but relies on donations, volunteers (like Cotarella), but mostly on selling what they make, including the wine. If you see ‘Avi’, that’s my favourite. A Sangiovese that’s rather modestly priced, and whilst it has the typical leanness of E-R sangiovese, there’s plenty of stuffing to see it pass a decade in the cellar with ease. I didn’t originally like Montepirolo, as this Cabernet Sauvignon also has a lean profile, and that can superficially make it seem a little rustic, but again it ages well, and I think I’ve come to appreciate the style more.
** It is. It has to be. Anyone caught on site with drugs is excluded permanently.
A very long time ago we did a mini vertical of maybe ten vintages of Montiano. My impression was that it developed a little faster than right bank merlot.
I used to buy it frequently but stopped with 2010 being the final one. Thanks for this note/update
Thanks for educating, a very interesting operation indeed. I remember seeing Avi often when shopping at the retailer I bought this bottle from but never got it. I’ll need to fix that.
I’ve always felt that the Puglia region of Italy had a special touch with merlot. I’ve enjoyed the Montianos I’ve had and recall that there was an entry level merlot that was quite good for the little tariff required. Also a Coterella wine if memory serves me well.
Il Falcone not available in the US. Castel del Monte is a little bit, pretty expensive. It’s an Antinori label?
Store near me has 2013 Taurino Notarpanaro Salento. Sounds interesting for the price. Any experience with it? I’m always interested in discovering more Italian nooks and crannies.
Rustic, but delicious (speaking for the wine generally, not the 2013). One of the inexpensive Italian wines I cut my teeth on back in the day, when the wine budget was much more constrained.
Castel del Monte is the region (named after King Frederick’s Octagonal Castle), often with Nero di Troia the grape / lead grape, and one I’d recommend trying even if not from here. Il Falcone is Rivera’s long time flag bearer (for winery and region).
Salice Salentino Rosso Riserva is 90% Negroamaro, 10% Malviasia Nera, also excellent and already aged for us! A few bucks cheaper than Notarpanaro. Less tannic, and generally easier drinking (that is more or less the intention of the Malvasia Nera). It always makes me feel like I am walking into some random Trattoria in Southern Italy, where they only have a house red, and I love it.
Patriglione is their premium bottling. 100% Negroamaro. 80 year old vines. No longer imported into the US it seems. Very sad, because it is an amazing wine. Late harvested and a bit Amarone like.
The only other wine I know from Puglia at that level (actually a bit higher level) with Negroamaro is Gianfranco Fino Jo. @IlkkaL If this doesn’t cause a Puglia epiphany it might not ever happen!
I have had 1995, 1998, and 2000 Montiano in the past year or so. All going strong. 2000 actually felt the oldest. You can often find these on winebid for absurdly reasonable prices.
And I very much agree with @Ian_Sutton about Riccardo Cotarella. I dont think he should be put in with the modernists. This is probably one of those cases where Modern vs Traditional is just too simplified.
If you haven’t had some aged Montevetrano (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Aglianico), those are worth seeking out. 2005 was drinking very well last I had it about a year ago. Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro (80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso) & Lamborghini Campoleone (50% Sangiovese, 50% Merlot) are also worth trying with some age, and far too often can be found on winebid for too little.
Good to see mentions of Notarpanaro, Patriglione, and I’ll throw in Candido’s Capello di Prete (negroamaro) as another modestly priced wine that’s made in decent volume, but always seems to perform well.
Moscato di Trani worth a try as a robust dessert wine
There’s certainly great value to be had in Puglia, but also I reckon a higher risk of failure. Overall I like the odds it presents.
