TN: 2009 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf "Forster Pechstein" GC - Holy Grail of Dry Riesling

"The name of the Pechstein stems from the black basalt rubble that is found here together with weathered red sandstone, sandy loam and friable clay. The extinct volcano, Pechsteinkopf, which is seen above the forest, distributed large quantities of volcanic rock over the area in ancient times. For this reason, the subsoil of the Pechstein also contains several basalt veins. The basalt rubble that contributes to easy warming of this site actually does not stem from the site’s subsoil, but rather from an old stone quarry just a couple hundred meters away. As was common in the 19th century, the basalt from the quarry was distributed in the vineyard and ploughed into the soil to improve it. The 17.1 hectare Pechstein is located at 120 to 150 meters a.s.l. and has a gentle 6 to 10 % slope gradient. The clay and loam in the Pechstein contribute to the excellent water storage capacity of the soil.“

Skurnik Wines

2009 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf “Forster Pechstein” GC Riesling

„Klares, mittleres Gelb mit zartem Grünstich. Sehr klare, frische, noch zurückhaltende und «grüne» Nase, die noch ganz von der typisch rauchigen Pechstein-Mineralik geprägt ist, mit zunehmendem Sauerstoffkontakt feinfruchtige Rieslingaromen. Am Gaumen sehr elegant und finessenreich, mit herrlich salziger Mineralität und viel Spiel, daher recht filigran und leichtfüßig wirkend. Aber dieser wunderbar puristische, ohne jeden barocken Schnörkel über die Zunge laufende Wein hat eine ungeheure Substanz, piekst die Schleimhäute und ist daher herrlich animierend und ewig mineralisch. Ein großer Mittelhaardt-Riesling im klassischen Stil.“

The above TN was published in september 2010 by the austrian wine-journalist Peter Moser/FALSTAFF and nothing has changed. This TN is still spot on. Youthful color of middle yellow with greenish reflexes. Overall clearly marked by the famous smoky Pechstein minerality. In addition equipped with a remarkable elegance&finesse and complexity. Also a real (!) salty minerality in the finish. Nothing baroque whatsoever. Indeed a classic Mittelhaardt-Riesling. Based on my experience with aged Pechstein Rieslings like for example from 1999 and 2004, this 2009er has room for improvement in the next 5-10 years. I also should highlight that Pechstein GC and Kirchenstück GC by the estate Bürklin-Wolf are members of the Holy Grail of Dry Riesling. Since 2004 the estate works organic.



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Forster Pechstein vineyard: Weinlagen

Nice. I’m not familiar with the Pechstein, but I’ve had quite a few bottles of late-'90s and early-2000s Kirchenstück over the years. How would you say the style of Pechstein compares?

The pricing on these top wines from B-W is now beyond my comfort zone, but they truly are some of the best. Gaisböhl still looks like a relative bargain.

Nice note Martin. I requested some 2020 Bürklin-Wolf from Rob Panzer (2020 Forst Village and some of the PC bottlings as an intro - Altenberg, Gerümpel, Böhlig) which are awaiting confirmation from the export manager. Been meaning to try this producer.

I would say Pechstein is more mineral monolithic like the “Morstein” from Keller. Kirchenstück is mineral too, but more polished, a touch more finesse, like maybe the “Abtserde” from Keller.

Oh yes, the prices have skyrocketed in the last years. BUT I strongly recommend Forster Village for 23 Euro in Germany. The 2017 was terrific last week-end, what a value. Look for the 2019 version or 2020.

Again, I should point out that the dry Bürklin-Wolf Rieslings are famous for their long aging potential like the Rieslings from the estates Breuer, Koehler-Ruprecht and Keller.

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Every time I open one it is so closed I never know if it is heat damaged or needs time.

I feel the same way. the 2010 pendant was disappointing last year.

Martin, wird Zeit, dass wir mal wieder gemeinsam was probieren. Mitte Juni bin ich durchgeimpft. Wie sieht‘s bei Dir aus?

I was lucky enough to be offered 2 library magnums of the 2011 Pechstein several years ago, which I gladly accepted.
Rob, we can try one sometime when the time is right.

Have you had luck with any of the bottles from that close out bunch that was going around a year or two ago.

Dauert noch, Anfang Juli ist die 2. Impfung.

Wow, nice! This TN is up my ally. Personally I prefer Pechstein GGs over Kirchenstuck and Jesuitengarten GGs. BW was the best of that period: Von Winning was still awaiting turnaround then, and Basserman J and Reischsrat were also still underperforming in in 2009.

Rob, I buy everything that I have handled directly from the winery, no aftermarket wines in my world, from any producer…
I know of the former CA importer selling everything two years ago, but never tried any of those wines.

Still have some 1997 left. The last one I opened a few years ago was spectacular.