2007 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett- Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (5/29/2015)
No matter how ripe the vintage in Germany, I can always count on the wines of the Saar to deliver some of those cool, green fruit flavors I love so much. This kabinett delivers that as well, but in a tropical vein. It’s loaded with green mango aromas, and even goes so far as ripe papaya, but then the lime and green apple elements kick in and carry the wine through the mid palate and to a mineral infused finish. The balance is pure kabinett, with the acidity meshing with the sweetness to render the wine barely off dry and with a completely dry finish. It’s lip-smacking and bracing, two very rare qualities in the 2007 vintage. This is a real “wow” wine, but that is what one expects from Egon Muller.
That sounds absolutely delicious, and from a vintage that I don’t generally give much credit outside of some of the trockens. Pricing has always kept me away from these wines, but maybe it shouldn’t. I know QPR is not linear in most categories, but do you think Egon Muller really performs a step above most other high quality Mosel/Saar producers?
I think Egon Muller is unique. I do not think it is 3X better than Prum on a sheer qualitative basis. The 2013 is showing up at over $80 on Wine SeArcher. That is beyond the pale.
I had this in a restaurant from a half bottle recently at a decent price and find your note on this wine, David, to be absolutely spot on. This was a real eye opener for me for pairing off dry Riesling Kabinett with veggie cuisine. This was great with a dish of apple, mustard ice cream and radishes, then a cucumber dish and finally endives with oranges.
I don’t buy the Müller wines either because I find more value in other wines like Prüm, Karthäuserhof, von Schubert or Willi Schaefer, but every time I drink a Müller Riesling, it’s a real treat.
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I might stick with my current favorites for a fraction of the cost and keep an eye out for deals on these, especially back vintages. Current regular pricing does seem insane.
It was just on the bin end list from one of the top 5 UK merchants, not one of my little German mom and pop stores…
It happens quite often, Bordeaux drinkers end up buying a case or two and later taste it and don’t like, always worth a punt on 11 (or 5) bottle cases of German wines.
Love the wines but the prices are escalating rapidly here in Australia. 20% increase from 2011 to 2012 for the Kabinett and I think another 25% for 2012 to 2013 - a quick retail check shows the 2013 Kabinett at $135 AU (can probably do better but still …), at least we get them in screwcap!
