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2004 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveau - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (1/14/2013)
Dim Sum Club at Paradise Pavilion (Pavilion Paradise, MBFC): This was a strange little wine, fluctuating between being a rather meaty interpretation of Chambolle to a positively green 2004 monster and back again. On first pour after 15 minutes in the decanter, there was no overt greenness at all actually. The nose, which was initially all about sweet, almost new-worldly raspberries and cherries, started opning up, taking on meatier, earthier Burgundy aromas and little wafts of flowers. With more time though, the fruit faded into the background, and greener asparagus and g herb notes started coming out. And it kept shifting in the decanter, showing less green, than greener and back. The palate too was a bit of a split-personality. At first, it showed plenty of spice and bramble mingling with sweet notes of ripe black cherries and blueberries, some flowers, and a good bit of meat. There was plenty of intensity and depth here, so that the wine came across altogether rather masculine. With its stuffing, its spice, and its firm structure of clean acidity and fine, grippy tannins, this came across almost more like a Morey than a Chambolle - but it was pretty good for all that. What irked me though was that the same shift that took place on the nose also haunted the palate, with the finish getting submerged more and more under a forest of green, herbal asparagus and ginseng notes with time. An intriguing, frustrating bottle. There was good raw material here, but maybe it needs a few more years in which it can, hopefully, shed all that nasty greenness. (90 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker