TN: 2003 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Cohn

WINE TALK
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  • 2003 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Cohn - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (6/8/2020)
    Cellared since release…was a HUGE KB fan back in the day…the 2003 Sonoma/RRV Pinots set me on the path for Ca. Pinot…then eventually that ended when the Burgundy black hole sucks you in! Still enjoy Ca. Pinot, but not as much of a fan as I use to be with these higher octane style cuvees. This 03 Cohn is showing the vintage wit some heat and little rust! 15.5 abv…not the hot mess like some 06’s, but noticeable. Ample fruit still…more stewed than I like, as well as some tomato patch, which I don’t like…I HATE TOMATOES! Creamy and silky dark liqueured berry fruits…still nice sweetness, holding well…dusty sandalwood spice, coffee, dried bing cherry/tobacco, brown sugar, white pepper…lovely cherry and potpourri florals. Lot of deep dark complexities…super nice at times…and totally reminds me of the 03’s I loved in the beginning…but that damn heat just distracts, and throws the balance all out of whack! And just a hint of that stewed tomato is not to my liking. I still find some pleasure in this, so not all is lost…as well as the great memories from the early days. Still have an 02/04 left of the Cohn…so we’ll see what those bring in a less hot vintage. (89 pts.)

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I went through a bunch of bottles of 2003 Koplen and Cohn back in 2007, these wines were doing it for me but I ultimately lost my taste for them. Heat and brown sugar does not surprise me. If I recall, the 2003 Koplen became really boozy in the aromatic, too.

I’m not sure you should think of 2004 as not a less hot vintage. If anything, it was indeed hot. I’d drink that before I drank the 2002.

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Sometimes it’s good to revisit those wines in your cellar that you used to like but now have moved away from them. I definitely have a couple of wines that fit in this category. Sorry the walk down memory lane didn’t age well.