TN: 2001 Aldo Conterno Bussia Cicala Barolo

I recently had the pleasure of trying (splurging!) the 2001 Cicala at Lupa (Mario Batali Italian restaurant in NYC). Got excited to try it since I had both the '89 and '90 AC Cicala earlier this year.

So: Decanted and served at the start of the meal. Clearly a young Barolo, at first tight though with a marvelous nose of red fruit and light floral elements. As the night wore on the wine opened (nose and taste) into a truly lovely Barolo. Fruity on the palate, with enough soft tannins to complement a fairly strong set of Italian dishes (pastas and roasted ox-tail). Excellent balance, with bright acids that really set off the food, but not even slightly heavy on the fruit – so led to an eat-drink-eat-drink cycle that was great. One remarkable element of this wine is its truly titanic length – just went on and on in the most delightful way. Light enough that it also went well with the cheese course – a honeyed ricotta and a medium pecorino.

Overall an excellent wine (92? 93?). How can it be big, fruity and powerful, yet light on its feet, even delicate, at the same time? Answer: Barolo. If I had a case I would be tempted to horde some for a few years at least, but would be more tempted to enjoy them now. Although I didn’t do it, I recommend decanting or slow ox’ing for at least a few hours before starting.

And btw on Lupa – one of my favorite modern/Italian restaurants in NY. Very good wine list, though not much there older than 2000.

Nice note.

I have really liked this wine the several times I have had it. Glad it is showing well. I’ll continue to let my remaining bottles rest for a bit yet.

Good to know. I have a few of the 06 version and have questioned it’s proportions.

the 99 and 2001 of this wine are very good. the estate has clearly gone past it’s malaise in the mid 90’s. I’ve tended to drink the bussia as this stage as it is drinking quite well, and save the cicala for a little longer. that being said, the 01 Gran Bussia is drinking remarkably well at this early stage currently.

Good note Rich, thanks for passing that on. I’ve never tasted this wine but contemplated purchasing several times.