Great note, Robert. It’s been a while since I last tried one and it sounds as if a little more time is needed.
I couldn’t agree more, GPL is one of the most consistent châteaux around. I don’t know what went wrong in 2003, because they certainly got 2002 right.
Well, that’s a first - GPL is rustic? I’m not knocking your take because wine appreciation is always subjective, but perhaps your definition of rustic is different?
For me, rustic is what some Languedoc-Roussillon or Madiran taste like, and in Bordeaux, in the past, Listracs: bold, unrefined, full-bodied and simple.
This is Dr.Vinny’s definition - what’s yours?
A “rustic” wine is one that can be described as hearty, earthy or rough-edged. The opposite of a rustic wine would be one that’s refined, elegant or smooth. “Rustic” is also a good way to describe tannins that have a chewy or coarse texture.
To me, GPL is neither rustic nor elegant. Nor would I call it polished, but instead in excellent years, the wine delivery is so pure. It is generally powerful, and to pardon what may no longer me an apropos term for wine descriptions, quite masculine. It is a text book Pauillac.
Yes, I agree, it’s a classic Pauillac, perhaps a slightly more elegant version of Pichon Baron. Actually, if I was going to call a Grand Puy “rustic”, it would be GPD, at least most of the time.
It’s always weird to argue over the meaning of adjectives since they are so subjective. But I’m with Julian – “rustic” for me means a rough-edged wine. I suspect that people like Jeff rarely if ever drink less expensive wines so they may not even be able to relate to what I would classify as rustic wines. Obviously a wine like Pichon Lalande tends to be more complex, deeper, more layered and frequently just better than GPL but that doesn’t mean that GPL lacks elegance. GPL tends to be more linear and “simpler” than the very highest end Paulliacs (most of which are out of my price range these days TBH) but I agree with Robert that when GPL is on the fruit delivery is very pure, focused, and well structured in a way that to me makes it elegant.
I opened a 1994 last night. I liked it quite a bit but I was shocked at how tannic it was. Lots of leather and earth but not as much cedar and spice as I was expecting. I have 2 more bottles but will hold on at least 5 years before opening another. I’d call it 88 points if you want a score.
So we are clear, I like GPL a lot, and buy it for my own cellar. It is a super wine with great character.
Back to the topic of rustic, rustic is a textural component of a wine. If you find GPL to be elegant, it is elegant for you. From Pauillac, I find Pichon Lalande and Lafite to be elegant. Those are the epitome of elegance in Pauillac. The tannins in GPL for me do not provide an elegant experience. And that’s OK, because GPL rocks!
Jay, are you thinking of it in more recent years or older vintages? I’ve always loved older vintages of Pichon Lalande, though I admit I’ve been a bit less impressed post 2000. The 79 (my birth year wine) is a personal favorite.