TN: 1998 Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Eiswein

WINE TALK
1
  • 1998 Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Eiswein - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (1/2/2017)
    Pulled this on a whim. Amber colored; looks advanced for its age. flavors of orange marmalade, orange pith, apricots, minerals and honey. While this is fairly sweet, it’s counterbalanced by wonderful acidity. Good concentration and finishes long. 6.0% abv. (93 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

I’m not sure if I was inspired to pull this because of David’s note, I have been meaning to open this for some time. I see no reason to think that this couldn’t last for many more years, but for my tastes, it’s ready now.

2

I have not had that particular eiswein, but the color could be influenced by the presence of botrytis, although your flavor descriptors sound pretty evolved.

3

Thanks for chiming in David. I don’t have much experience with eiswein, but I sensed the wine was a bit more advanced than it should have been. Nonetheless, still quite enjoyable.

While drinking it, I couldn’t help thinking it reminded me of what I wanted aged Sauternes to be. The flavors were markedly similar (is this typical), but there was much more freshness/lightness on the palate from the acid.

4

Some eisweins have significant botrytis influence, and can pick up some Sauternes-like flavors. Some eisweins are zero or minimal botrytis (my preference), and they do not evolve similarly to Sauternes.

5

Thanks. I didn’t really get the spice notes that I associate with botrytis, but the flavors were indeed similar to Sauternes.

6

I haven’t tried many wines from here from the 90s but I think the estate has come on really well in the last five years. I’m a buyer and I wasn’t before.

7

The revival goes back even a little further than that. I have had a number of the 2008s that are delicious.

8

I don’t doubt it. There has been a continued noticeable improvement since I have been tasting them though. That only started annually in 2010.