TN: 1998 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace (Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley)

WINE TALK
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Drunk at the monthly WIMPS lunch at the Ledbury, in London.

  • 1998 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley (1/26/2012)
    Lighter crimson. Nose strikingly reminiscent of a Bloody Mary, with prominent celery and elements of tomato and spices. The fruit is dark, in the blueberry/blackberry range, but with no perceivable sweetness. In the mouth it’s refreshingly light-bodied but with palpable tannin. At least in a flight with four other Australian Shirazes, this wine feels admirably austere: its discipline makes me think of a harsh, scolding German schoolteacher. Definitely an Old World style. But in the end I’d say it was more impressive than enjoyable. (91 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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Does anyone think this wine is near the level of the better competitors at its $500 price point?

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Thanks for the note - I had one years back, and from your description, it does not seem to have moved at all. I particularly liked the harsh, scolding German schoolteacher description.

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I handed all my 1998 Henschke Mt Edelstones back to the winery and had them swapped with the current vintage no questions asked. There was a brett problem and a rumor of poor storage.

I never bought the 98 despite the hype. There are fantastic bottles and there are average bottles. Something really went wrong at Henschke in 98.

I have stopped buying HofG as it is so expensive and the Henschke premium never sees a discount abroad. That is, on international markets, where the absurd local Australian wine taxation of around 50% won’t apply and should see the wine at Chave pricing. It is an exceptional wine and certainly worthy of the same pricing as Chave.

Here’s a tip. Mt Edelstone can show better than HofG at different stages of its evolution and is a fifth of the price. And I believe Mt Edelstone is getting better and better.