I have some very fond memories of this classic St Emilion but do not recall having any since the 2000 vintage. This 1998 is an aging beauty, and it probably will not make older bones, but it is showing wonderfully right now.
Quite aromatic with a lot of earthy dry notes and red brambly fruit. A very minor hint of VA but not detractingly so, maybe it adds another element of interest. The palate is lithe, crisp, revealing a range of savory, gamy and meaty elements to it. Some iron and blood notes. Dry leafy ground cover and tobacco. Some saddle leather present. Tannins resolved but still structured with tangy chewy acids on the finish. A bit drying and clipped on the closing. All things considered, a rather lovely, 25+ year old classic Bordeaux. (91 pts.)
I understand Michel Rolland eventually became involved with the château, but I do not know the inclusive dates. I would be surprised if he made this 1998, but if he did, kudos to him, it is a restrained style.
Ugh, another Rolland hostile takeover? Ureal, what’s left over there? St Emilion should just secede from France and make Michel the omnipotent sovereign and be done with it. Then St Emilion can be made entirely as a single wine, Chateau Michel or something.
Cool! Good to read that it’s still going strong. I enjoyed my last one in 2018 and was surprised by how well it had matured, since the style of the 98 is rather lighter and fresher than most of its counterparts. I had no idea that Rolland had got involved at one point and I agree that the 98 certainly doesn’t taste like one of his (nor does the 00). That said, sometimes Rolland-advised St.Emilions can acquire a certain elegance and class with age - one example being the Faugères 98 that I rather enjoyed last year.
It’s made by the Soutard team, along with Soutard and Petit Faurie de Soutard, with the Cadet-Piola vines rolled into Soutard. Everything was in a pretty parlous state after years of neglect in the vines, so a lot had to be replanted; but that was done intelligently, at high densities with good genetics, and the vineyards are very well managed, so all three wines are now worth following. Soutard is the most serious and complete, Larmande the most charming, and PFdS the most mineral. Thomas Duclos is the consultant behind the project.
