1997 Müller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz (8/4/2013)
This is still hovering on a plateau of maturity. A couple of years ago it was all tree fruit and spice. Tonight it’s all tree fruit and spice, with perhaps more smoke than the last time. The most interesting part of the wine is the finish, which has clear fresh orange rind elements - the fruitiness and the bitterness, and goes on for as long as you care to wait. There’s surprisingly bright acidity for a 1997, and that keeps drawing me back for sip after sip.
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