TN: 1996 Emmanuel Huillon Arbois Pupillin

WINE TALK
1

Had it with dinner at JP Jeunet in Arbois. Ordered it on recommendation of the somm, after being informed the only bottle of Overnoy they had left was sold out (‘when in Rome…’).

On its own, a different beast, structured, attacks with the acid, carries a distinct note of preserved sour plum, almost biting when you start. I’m no expert on white wines, much less Jura, but having tried a handful, it does come across as ‘Arbois.’

With the Bresse chicken with vin jaune sauce, it is incredible. On its own (food or wine) and together, this experience has defined ‘terroir’ for me. I suspect its because the styles of both the wine and the cuisine are not as widespread as Burgundian or Bordelais, or even Provencal styles, thus you really get the sense of place. In any case, they went together superbly. Full credit to John Osgood and Larry Stein on this forum, who ‘persuaded’ me to make the drive out through their rave reviews on another thread on the Travel sub-forum. For those visiting Burgundy, Arbois is a very charming town where you can easily spend, at minimum, a long afternoon. Well worth the drive. As an aside, the service as Jeunet was top-notch, and, in my opinion, the chicken is better than the one at L’Hotel, albeit a different style of preparation.

Back to the wine: the restaurant decanted and I enjoyed the wine over the 3-hour span of dinner. It had plenty of life, and then some, through the last sip. The acid backbone was ever present through the meal, with layers of fruit coming on as the wine opened, helping it settle somewhat. Evolving throughout, getting a bit more balanced over time. The aforementioned sour plum gave way to fresher notes, like apricots a shade before ripening, or citrus that’s ripe but on the sour side. I swear I got vanilla a few times. I really wonder what it would be like with another 10 years…

Wines like this make me want to learn about and explore whites more, and also are encouraging w.r.t. experimenting. When the somm poured the final glass, he smiled at me and said cheekily “I’m sorry!” All I could reply was, “Me too!”

2

Sam, you probably know that Manu Houillon apprenticed with Pierre Overnoy, worked beside him at the domaine, and now has taken the reigns. I’ve not seen the wine you drank, but suspect it was a side project made while Manu was still working with Pierre, but before Manu stepped into the lead role. It may even have been made with Overnoy grapes, who knows. Anyway, you weren’t served a second-class bottle!

3

Very interesting… do you have a photo of this bottle? I was not aware the Houillon bottled under his own name prior to working with Pierre.

4

This sounds so delicious!

So this must have been a chardonnay/savagnin blend, at least somewhat oxidized. I am entirely envious!

5

Bresse is the best!

6

I questioned the wisdom of venturing into the Jura so early in our business when my Jura crazed partner first suggested it, but it has been a great experience to have discovered the wines from this region. Moving from the Trousseau to the various elevage styles (ouillé vs. sous voile) of their whites, Chardonnay and Savagnin, the voyage has been delightful.

We’ve been fortunate to have great relationships with two of the region’s rising stars: AJ Touraize & Damien Courbet. Their wines are outstanding!

7

Hallo all! Sorry for the delay, I’ve been in transit and just arrived to Houston… A long way from France! I will get around to posting pictures and responding in a bit

8

Sam, are you a Houston resident? If so… we should drink! I got a fair amount of the nerdy Jura juice and other stuff if you’re a fan :slight_smile:

9

So here’s the picture of the bottle. Apologies for the way it’s shot - I took it for Instagram purposes (yep, Instagram) but I think you can see all the key details :slight_smile:
IMG_20150712_195944.jpg

10

Hi Jim - I know they worked together and Houillon has taken over. I’m not sure if this is the side project. As I understand, the ‘main’ wine is still labeled under ‘Maison Pierre Overnoy’ but has Houillon listed as the winemaker. In any case, I agree, definitely not a second-class bottle! In fact, it was priced much better than the ‘Overnoy’ labeled one, so I’m guessing QPR was significantly higher [cheers.gif]

11

You know, I haven’t done any research after the fact, but I’m thinking you’re right. Time to power up Google and educate myself on Jura a bit more…

12

That’s great to hear - to be honest, I don’t know much about Jura, really, I made the journey to Arbois for the restaurant, but it’s been revelatory. Going to be doing some work here now! Hopefully your early investment will pay dividends soon champagne.gif

13

Hi Albert - nope, I’m here on some personal business. First time to Houston, actually! Just staying until Saturday. But I’ll keep you in mind if/when I make it back!

14

Next time! If you get a moment, grab a drink at Camerata or 13 Degrees. Great lists and folks at both places. If work brings you downtown, Public Services is run by some friends and the list is really great and 1/2 price off EVERYTHING from 4-6:30 every day. Back vintage Domaine Huet Moelleux and more.

Safe travels

15

Sam it sounds like a great experience. I’m that Jura crazed business partner of Michael’s that he referred to above. I’ve had my share of Overnoy in Arbois and the wine you had is a really interesting. I haven’t seen it before. In fact, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen one of those labels without the Maison Overnoy reference above Manu’s name. Very cool. I do love the experience at JPJ and I assume it was Alain Guillou, the chef sommelier, who made the wine referral. He is a really interesting guy and a great resource. If you get back to Arbois, I’d also recommend dining at La Balance Mets et Vins and Auberge du Grapiot just up the road in Pupillin. I’ve had great meals and great wines at both, including Overnoy within the last year. I am a huge fan of Arbois generally. Love the whole vibe and sensibility there and throughout the Jura in general.

16

Some googling dug up this image, but it is tagged as a 2006 label. Weird.

17

Here is a quote I found in a larger piece on the LDM website, “In 1995, when still a student, Houillon found 1/3HA of Chardonnay vines which he tended himself. He also planted 1/2HA of Chardonnay in 1998. That same year, the Overnoy estate grew by 2.5HA of Poulsard and Savagnin, when Pierre took over vines owned by his sister.” It confirms what I recalled that Manu came full-time to work for Overnoy in 1997 and had been studying and apprenticing with Pierre since 1990. Neat piece of history that 1996.

18

Late last year, based on my conversation with Anne Houillon, Manu’s wife, when we tasted at Overnoy’s place in Pupillin, I recall her as saying that Manu had been doing full time work with Pierre Overnoy starting around 1995.

It’s hard to say where the grapes from the 1996 bottle came from, as Manu, apparently, was also buying small vineyards on his own when he started working for Pierre, according to a book by a Jura writer Wink Lorch.

19

Seems like this specific Houillon sub-bottling is generating some interest, so I’ll add that there was a '95 on the wine list at JPJ as well. Unfortunately, I didn’t take a pic and my memory is crap, but the details are: (i) it was a '95 under the same labeling (“Emmanuel Houillon”), (ii) it was in an odd format, IIRC, 50cl or 60cl, (iii) it was sans oxidation (or is it with? I keep getting confused. Basically it’s ‘the other style’ relative to the '96).

An unusual bottle, and priced above the '96 I ended up going with. The '96 was ~€200 and the '95 was… my fuzzy memory wants to say ~€300, but I might be completely making that up. It was a meaningful premium for a smaller bottle, that I can say with some certainty.

For those making the trek to JPJ, might be worth looking out for. Sounds like the '95 is even rarer than the '96!

Chris - I went on a Sunday and actually passed by La Balance (it was recommended by the proprietor of La Dilettante in Beaune) but it was closed. I would happily visit Arbois again and spend a night there - next time!

20

Le Grapiot has apparently declined. My wife and I really did not enjoy our meal there this past March. But I completely agree about La Balance. That may have been our meal of the trip! It is obligatory to order the coq au vin jaune. And Overnoy was plentiful on the list.