TN: 1992 Thevenet Macon Clesse Quintaine
A big surprise. I knew I had some 2002, one of which I planned to bring to lunch at my favorite bistro. When I pulled the wine from its bin, it was 1992.
Light gold color, slightly honeyed, floral aromas with no oxidation. Ripe flavors with superior depth and outstanding acidity. The lengthy finish was velvety smooth. The wine could have easily passed for a superior 1er or Grand Cru white burgundy from a top vintage. Made my day!
DoctorJay
Wow.
I see now reason that it couldn’t age, but it’s always felt like a 5-10 year wine. Interesting discovery!
regards
Ian
Cool note.
Wouldn’t shock me if the 92 was drinking better than the 02.
I’ve had far better luck with my aged Macon’s than I’ve had with white Burgundies from more prestigious and expensive appellations and producers. Here are notes on some I’ve had in the last few years:
1996 Domaine Guillemot-Michel Mâcon Clessé Quintaine - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon Clessé (5/29/2016)
Terrific aged white Burgundy, if only my 1996 Ramonets and Sauzets aged this well, showing lemon, a little vanilla, a little nuttiness, with great sparkly acidity. (92 pts.)
1996 Domaine de Roally Mâcon-Montbellet Tradition - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Montbellet (1/8/2015)
I remembered that Eric Texier mentioned that one of the first wines he ever bought was from Henri Goyard, so I pulled my last bottle of this to share with him during his recent visit to Atlanta. Hazelnuts and a hint of butterscotch, rich but nimble layers of fruit and minerals, and enough acidity to keep it all together, it was simply brilliant, and even more impressive than the wonderful 1997 Bongran opened the week before.
The realization that this was my last Goyard triggers a surprising sense of loss, but even stronger is the joy from the memory of sharing that final bottle with someone who appreciates and understands M. Goyard’s wines and his legacy better than I ever will. (94 pts.)
1997 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Mâcon Clessé Cuvée Tradition Sélection E.J. Thévenet - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon Clessé (12/30/2014)
Terrific aged white Burgundy hazelnut, rich, layered, at peak but with no danger of decline, it is ridiculously good right now and puts most white Burgs from more prestigious appellations to shame. A little RS pops its head out with air as it just gets better (94 pts.)
2002 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J.Thévenet - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé (12/29/2014)
It has aged nicely, with a little butterscotch oxidation and showing typical botrytis and a little RS. It could use a little more acidity, but was still very enjoyable, particularly with a torchon of foie gras. (92 pts.)
Still have quite a few from the late 90s. We served the 2002 (I think) at our wedding and had a bit left from the 100 or so bottles we bought.