Unlucky…unlucky again…then, third time’s the charm! Speaking of my difficulty in finding a sound bottle of Barolo to accompany a typically superb lunch at Del Posto a couple of days ago. After having never sent a single bottle back over the course of countless meals at this great restaurant, the odds caught up to me and I managed to go 0 for 2 before landing on this excellent choice. Just for the record my travails included a browning 80 Bartolo and a just plain brown 85 Giacosa Villero. Jeff, the very capable new head somm, put me out of my misery with this recommendation. I haven’t drunk much Ratti, but what I got was pretty consistent with my limited experience and expectations–a well made, thoroughly traditional nebbiolo, perhaps somewhat “civilized” by the vintage. I have some misgivings describing a wine by what it’s not, but here goes. Lacks the power of G Conterno; the elegance and tantalizing acidic edge of B Mascarello; the perfect balance of Giacosa. What it delivered in spades was no holds barred ripe, authentic nebbiolo fruit, complete with no nonsense rustic tannins, all jumbled together in a medium bodied frame. Perfectly satisfying with the Carne Cruda and Agnolotti dal Plin.
Ripeness must have been jolting to you, but those 20 yo still jaggedy tannins brought you home to Piedmont in your mind no doubt.
Painfully overdue for a Del Posto visit myself.
Glad it worked out, Carl. I’ve often had lovely bottles of Ratti Barolo but never been really moved by one.
Speaking of Del Posto, I’m finally making progress on my notes and photos from La Festa. Hope to have the afternoon ones up soon. Lovely place. That Agnolotti dal Plin was my favorite dish that evening.
Nice,honest report Carl…of how playing with wine doesn’t always bring us what we would hope.Philosophically,choosing to describe an object or sensation with not this,not this…can sometimes bring us to the same place as,this,this…but as for this:
no holds barred ripe, authentic nebbiolo fruit, complete with no nonsense rustic tannins …sounds good to me!
I would generally agree with my cousin on Ratti impressions.
You guys always smell a Ratti.
We’re talking about Barolo here. This is no place for jokes.
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I’m loving all the Barolo talk on this board lately. The Ratti sounds pretty much like what I’d expect from this producer in 1990. Enjoyable, but certainly not what you would have expected.
I was moved by 82 Marcenasco Rocche many years ago; I wonder whether my point of reverence has shifted. Ratti was a very important force in Barolo, in the vineyards and in the winery. I wonder whether the trajectory of this estate was changed by his untimely passing in the late 80s.
Henry,
I’ve been hearing the more recent releases of the Marcenasco are purer, less oaky than in years past. Perhaps there’s been a stylistic change. May be worth asking Antonio.
Todd, you are indeed way overdue. Come on up, we’ll order triple Caramelles and we’ll drink red Burgs, no jaggedy tannins allowed!
Ken, you captured my drift, the wine didn’t move me. Missing that extra dimension. But Bill, you’re right, the “typical” fruit allied with the combative tannins proved very appealing company in that setting with that particular meal.
Chae, absolutely no feeling of “oaky” in this wine whatsoever.
I have a TN on here regarding the 1990 Marcenasco (not the cru Rocche or cru Conca, just the “regular”) wh ich I had about 6 months or so ago. Fantastic bottle. The only vintage of the Rocche I have tasted from them was the 82, bought several bottles on release - another terrific wine. dc.