released a few years ago from Leroy, this has remained an absolutely gorgeous bottle of wine drinking at peak. I used to think that Corton was overrated–perhaps it is, since it’s such a very huge vineyard with varied expositions, with so many lieux dits within it, and so many producers of differing ability. This Leroy negociant bottling is fabulous, though, and this wine along with a Lionel Bruck Corton Clos du Roi 64 have made me rethink my opinion about the status of Corton. Now I believe that at least parts of Corton are definitely worthy of grand cru status, but that they need a very long time to shine, perhaps longer than any other red grand cru Burgundy.
This bottle certainly shined tonight, however. The complex bouquet is powerful yet gentle, full of finesse that carries to the palate and finish. Smoky spicy cherry fruits infused with minerals, layers of silk providing beautiful texture and mouthfeel, resolved tannins, and enough acidity to carry and lift the wine–it simply explodes on the palate and there is–as Tanzer calls it–beautiful inner mouth perfume. The sweetness of the fruit is beguiling; it’s both a sensual and an intellectual wine and, as I often do with such wonderful Burgundies, I kick myself for not buying more, but at least I’ve gotten a glimpse of heaven a few times with this bottling . . .
alan