1834 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia- Portugal, Madeira (3/7/2013)
I’ve been sitting on a bottle of this for 6 years, and I figured the 10th anniversary of my inaugural tasting note on CellarTracker was the perfect time to crack this baby and steal a couple of ounces.
Wow, wow, wow! I’ve had this a couple of times, and it was stunning before. This bottle though is on a whole different level. Deep and brothy on the nose with that funky, beefy, caramelized onion thing I find in Madeira. The palate though, oh the palate. So thick and intense, rich, caramel and beef and onion, but then there is this explosion of lime and salt and acid. It’s stunning for a wine to carry such richness and length while still showing such unreal acidity. I really need to drink more Madeira, as it is so uniquely fresh and intense.
I really look forward to following this bottle for a long time to come. (97 pts.)
The 34 has continued to be the old standby for Vintage Madeira for several years.It’s so satisfying to sip these wines while pondering the history of their birth swirling around.
Nice notes,Eric.
[quote=“brigcampbell”]Steal a couple ounces then just pop the cork back in? How do you store it?
Madeira is fine staying opened for long periods?
/quote]
I love the story that Roy Hersh has told of a time when Manny Berk came to him with a glass of vintage Madeira.I believe it went something like…Roy remarked how fresh and vibrant it was and asked how long it had been decanted …I believe manny’s response was…9 years.
It is nearly impregnable and certainly indefatigable.
I bought three bottles of the 1875 Barbeito Madeira Malvasia [Note typo in CT database - the label spells it with an S ] and the first one - opened for my 60th Birthday - was a fantastic bottle. Now I’ll have to go out and look for an older one while I find a good excuse to opent he two remaining bottles I have. They seem so young compared to the 1834. Yours was an Andrew Jackson; mine a US Grant. Maybe something about military generals being President and great years for Madeira.
Over the past 15 years, I’ve had more bottles of the 1834 than any other Madeira except the 10 year old Malmsey by Broadbent. Very solid quality.
Agree with Bill that the D’Olly 1875 Malvasia is one of the all time greats. The Moscatel is also very good from that vintage but I greatly prefer the Malvasia.
The 1795 shown is always fun. Last year this month, I had the chance to try three 1795 bottlings side-by-side and that was quite educational although not all of them showed up to snuff.
The aforementioned story was partially correct. After a long day of trying a couple dozen samples of Madeira at Mannie’s home, he presented a bottle in a paper bag that was stored in a cabinet in his work area. He wanted a very specific tasting report on what my impression was. I wondered if he had been checking to see if there was palate fatigue, but I could be way off on that presumption. After providing my feedback, he then asked how long I felt that bottle had been opened. I guessed way off and he then replied 9 years and showed me the bottle which had only 1-2" left in the bottom. 9 years open. I don’t believe any other wine on earth can accomplish that feat.
Coincidentally, I am here in NY this weekend for a Madeira event that I have co-organized with Mannie. We’ve put together a private group tasting of arguably the best Verdelho bottlings left on the planet, at least most of them easily fit that bill. 1890 is the youngster, 1748 the elder statesmen. My report will appear in The World of Fine Wines and also FTLOP. One can never have enough Madeira.
Roy, have I ever posted about how much I hate you and your life? P.S. Everyone posting on this thread does too! Double
But seriously, Eric nailed it right on the head for aged Madeira in general. While aged Tawny Port is the closest, there is absolutely no other wine on Earth that has the unique combination of fruit, burnt sugar toffee, lime and salt flavor notes that Madeira has. Just when you think it tastes like something to you, it then suddenly tastes like something else. No other sweet wine can match it for sheer complexity.
I bought a bottle of the 1922 D’Oliveras in 2007 for my mother’s 85th Birthday and left a few ounces in the bottom of the bottle.
I bought a bottle of the 1922 D’Oliveras in 2012 for my mother’s 90th Birthday and left a few ounces in the bottom of the bottle.
If Manny and my mother will cooperate, I plan to buy another for her 95th and then have a ?verticle? for her 100th showing the effect of oxidation on 100 year old Madeira.
![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
![[scratch.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/4/42a16863a8714da3c1604419e3eb9206bb87aa50.gif "scratch"){kind=small}
] and the first one - opened for my 60th Birthday - was a fantastic bottle. Now I’ll have to go out and look for an older one while I find a good excuse to opent he two remaining bottles I have. They seem so young compared to the 1834. Yours was an Andrew Jackson; mine a US Grant. Maybe something about military generals being President and great years for Madeira.
![[drinkers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/8/82916bed5ad74ac8470bc04089d9758b0c80c9fa.gif "drinkers"){kind=small}