16 Sierra Cantabria ‘Crianza’ [Rioja] This wine was sent to me as a mistake, although its one I would have been willing to try anyways, although a priori not sure I’d have expended a spot in a shipment for that. Fortunately, this crianza was quite good, and I have enjoyed it over two days. It’s 14.5% abv, and a Jorge Ordonez import, which usually means it’ll be on the big/modern side – but I found this to be balanced and enjoyable. I don’t get any overpowering oak on opening it, nor on day 2 (unlike an Altare which was like a lumberyard…). It’s not overly distinctive (to me) in a red or black fruit tilt, and is well pitched (on the acid side) for drinking without food. 2016 seems like a nice year to lay down a few Rioja based on this, and I’ll be looking for reserva’s eventually. In my ledger, a A- and a likely repurchase/reconsume. Tannins are mild to me.
It’s by the Eguren family. Old time Rioja family for many generations that decided to bottle their own grapes. Good producers for just about everything, although they tend to like “big” wines.
Having my second bottle of this Crianza right now, and to be quite honest it’s remarkable that a $12 bottle of wine has sparked my interest in Rioja again. Mélange of red and black cherries, with layers of potpourri, sweet red pepper and savory, baking spices. I think there are elements of new oak that are apparent here - but compared to past wines that put me off Rioja, the use of oak feels very judicious and being a crianza, lacks the balsamic character of R/GR Riojas. I think this is a serious value, that shows the quality of a $20+ wine quite easily (plenty of density and midpalate here).
Search function shows that this producer seems to be a bit more modern - which generally is a negative for me, unless modern for Rioja means lacking dill and vinegar notes. I’ve got a couple bottles of Muga laying down, but otherwise my cellar is void of any Spanish wine. Any recommendations for Rioja that avoid excessive American Oak and VA/Balsamic Notes (which are anathema for me even though I’m quite tolerant of brett and “funk”)?
You might want to try M. de Caceres crianza too, modern tilt, and similar price point with vast distribution. Although I would expect you’ve already had it at some point. 2016 was good but I thought the Cantabria was better.
Maybe a touch harder to find, probably tilting more toward the flavors you may not like, are Pecina and Remirez de Piscina, but still worth checking out.
There are a whole bunch of newer wave Rioja coming in now - Artuke, Ternero, etc. that seem to be trying different things, including labeling systems that are not familiar to consumers. Benjamin Romeo has been making non traditional Rioja for a while, and his entry point Predicador can sometimes be picked up at $20. I don’t recall balsalm with that, but don’t remember it being overly obvious as Rioja either.
Will check some of these out, thanks Arv! Any reccos at a higher price point? $25-35+? I’d love to find some cellar worthy Rioja that are affordable alternatives to Bordeaux. (Would be more than willing to go higher, but there are so many excellent French producers in the $40-60 range that there’s a good deal of competition in my budget - particularly with 2019 Bordeaux Futures so affordable).
I’m pretty sure the 2016 Ramirez de la Piscina ‘Crianza’ [Rioja] was what I was supposed to be sent in the original post and I finally got around to opening it over the last couple of nights. It’s a very tasty, fleshy modern take on a lightly wooded 100% tempranillo. Lots of fruit, and for me, the cream/coconut oak elevage seems in tune. More balsalmic than earth on the palate, if one was trying to differentiate between this and young Bordeaux. This is a Jorge Ordonez selection and it’s stylistically similar to the original as well - generalizing his portfolio is rich, round, modern. I like his wines but they’re not the only type I buy from Rioja. Overall, an A- and a huge value. 14.5% abv and natural closure. Even though the crianza level of wines is intended for early consumption, some can keep longer than one would expect. This is holding just fine and there is no hurry.
NB: Piscina and Pecina are different producers, both very fine in their own ways.
